Honestly, its genuinely impressive that you built a motor that moved the bike at all. Even the 50cc motors from ebay kits have trouble fully propelling a bike, and usually don't last much longer than your engine does. 100/10 badass execution of "know-how"
@erixccjc2143 not all of them are garbage, people just don't wanna spend the money for the real manufacturers and get the cheapest kit they can find. I know someone that has gotten 500miles out of an ebay 50, i know someone thats gone through 3 of them, one of them bought legit, one shopped low to high. Also most of the 2smoke 50cc engines are all just clones even the ones that come in those new cheapo SSR 50s
Knowing this pissed off an hoa is reason enough for me to love it. That said, there is a reason that not only are most single cylinder engines made of aluminum, but that the fins are cast as part of the case, rather than added later; and it's not just for cost savings.
@@Chris-hall9080 Not knowledgeable about engines but it could be that the heat transfer is better when its one continuous piece of metal compared to multiple pieces soldered together
2023: i 3d printed an engine 2024: i made an engine out of hardware store parts 2025: i 3d printed a car for the hardware store engine 2026: i made a car out of hardware store parts
10:52 print the belt hollow. Then pause the print like halfway through. Then insert fishing line (without moving anything). And continue printing. (You can do the same with magnets or hooks or hinges or whatever)
Honestly, this isn't a bad result for a homemade engine. In one or two additional iterations you'll have one that can deliver and handle the torque without blowing itself up.
My man is doing r&d the good ol way, by building and testing over and over but he kinda is getting good at it, it ran for a lot and pushed you forward so it is amazing man
A guy in soviet russia named Aleksander Pribyloy did something similar in 1950s and rode his homemade motorcycle to bicycle factory where everyone was amazed by his engine's construction. They gave him finances and workers and his engines and their modifications were produced in russia until late 2000s (D4 - D8 engines), and they're still produced in China (F50 engines)
Fun fact, you CAN use regular solder to solder steel parts together, how do you think they made lanterns waaay back in the day? The main thing with this is you MUST make sure the steel is clean. AKA no rust, no oils, and you'll need to use some acid to take off the very tiny layer of oxidation it naturally has from just being exposed to the air. I know this works because I've had to do it before and my father is the one whom taught me. We had to do it on an antique lantern I own that had an old seam on the tank start actively weeping whenever any fuel was put into it. (for the acid just make sure you're in a well ventilated space with a fan gently blowing air on and past you so as to blow the acid fumes away)
@@iiisaac1312 Normally, the temperatures of the outside of the cylinder and head of an air-cooled engine should remain below the melting temperatures of even a Sn 40 Pb 60 alloy, but in the case of a very hot engine the margin would not be huge and at temperatures close to the melting temperatures the mechanical strength might not be optimal. A lead-free alloy, which has a somewhat higher melting temperature, might be more suitable
@@iiisaac1312 Good question, theoretically it could if it goes above the melting temperature of the solder you use since they can have different melting temperatures. This temperature is all dependent on the alloy of the solder and the brand (alloy especially). Heck the special solder he used could even potentially melt depending on the temperature the engine gets to and the alloy the solder is. (I'm sorry this answer isn't a simple yes or no)
@@fallingwater Muriatic acid can be gotten at various hardware stores and is what my father and I used for soldering the tank on my lantern. Now keep in mind that the fumes can be toxic and you should be in a well ventilated area (outside preferably) and have a very light breeze blowing on you from a fan at a distance. For applying the acid you can get Acid Brushes from a place like Harbor Freight or Lowes and all you do is gently dip the brush into the acid, you don't need much, then you gently brush the acid onto the spot you are looking to solder. When you're working on this you should have a cup of water on hand for dipping the brush into as well as some baking soda for being able to neutralize acid in case you spill some. It works well but can be nasty if not treated with respect.
the main problem is that you don't gain normal revs on this engine. a two-stroke engine likes high revs, and yours, judging by the sound, barely gains two or three thousand, which is very little for it. try again, but you need to rev the engine hard. listen to how the scooter sounds, and you'll understand everything
2 stroke don't have to rev high and usually rev lower than 4 strokes (as long as we are not talking about high performance engines). Also high revs put lots of stresson every part, so it might break down even faster.
Good luck on making a new engine, you're actually starting to get pretty good at making these homebrew engines, and your welding is getting much better, great job.
thumb throttle is much smarter than twist throttle. Especially on anything experimental. Added that to my 319cc pocket bike for safety reasons when realizing the twist throttle is a safety issue.
This reminds me of old soviet bicycle engines (like the krasniy oktyabir d4) these engines werent just made by soviets, but basically every country in the 1950s cuz they were a cheap way of motorized transportation. Some examples are the hungarian dongó, which is based on the italian mosquito garelli, the french la poulain and terrot serwa, the polish malcherek and the german m.a.w
My thoughts exactly, having owned a D8 equipped Soviet motorized bike called "Кроха" ("Teensy", it was a little one indeed) hearing the sound unlocked all the memories.
Impressive work. When the fuel tank on the bike made its appearance😂. Just the contrast between all the ingenuity, work, time in the motor, and a water bottle fuel tank is great👍.
Really big cylinder was the solution way back in the day I think the Benz patent motorwagon was like a liter displacement and less than 1 hp and that was more or less the first "car"
this engine does not utilize its crank case for added compression, so alot of the compression is lost in higher engine speeds. this is because when not utilizing the crank case, it is unable to get all the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber. This also makes it more likely for the engine to ruminate fuel shooting back into the intake causing a wrong mixture.
Maybe I know what the problem is You should reconsider the ignition, namely the moment of ignition. It should be 2-3 millimeters after the top dead center, then the engine power will be at the right time. It is also possible that you put piston rings with incorrect lock spread It's like a couple of thoughts from me Good luck with the project👍😁
Hi Camden! Let the crankshaft drive the wheel directly by friction between shaftend and tire. Easiest way to do it. For clutch use a movable motormount. Best place is on top of the rear wheel. Provides the necessary "gearing" without all the belts and pulleys. Been there done that and it works fine :) Good luck from Germany
I love these series! Because it washes away this perception of mine, that ICE's could only be made with top tier tools and knowledge. And here you are, making them from whatever you could find and they WORK despite everything! Can't wait for new videos! ❤
Here some words from me idk if I’d call it advice but I have been messing with single cylinder engines 2&4 stroke for a while now. Most 2 strokes have a nickel plated cylinder, for a reason. You need to work on your air/fuel mix so you can rev the engine and control RPM’s. You would be wise to make some attempt even if it’s tacky at an expansion pipe. Also a small CVT would be extremely worthwhile in the situation. Your gear setup while fascinating and clever I believe is to much drag on the entire system. Maybe a CVT would be also, I’m not sure, but revving the engine higher is essential. You need more power. Also I commend you for doing this, I’ve always considered it but never attempted it. You’re doing great, keep it up man.
So I rebuild chainsaw engines for a hobby and one thing I have looked into is using stainless steel as a cylinder sleeve, or a molybdenum alloy. These would give you a better cylinder wall, but stainless might give you trouble with heat transfer. I also suggest you look into a higher transfer port design. Overall though very impressive what you have accomplished
Great project, I love it. I used to make that sort of stuff 50 yrs ago. You have too many friction losses in the gear train. If you make a small pulley on your motor shaft about 75mm to the shape of the tire & run that directly onto the rear wheel you will cut those losses & the gearing will be about right. Also you can peddle to start the engine. That is the way I used to run two stroke lawn mower engines on my bike. was great fun.
Bigger intake port,heavier flywheel? Expansion chamber,true 50cc displacement,all of these will hopefully help. Side note I tried a bigger carb on my gas powered bike and it has lot more torque
0:56 Imagine you were the bike longing for him to give you the tender loving car you deserve only for you to be turned into a 2-stroke engine test bench
Full billet aluminum cylinder jug and head, you can cut the fins out with a milling machine and bore the cylinder to fit the piston of your choice with proper tolerances 😎
Feels like im watching a video from the 19th century when they were first starting to make bikes. Keep up the good work looking forward to see the progress
Lol. I have an '86 spree in the shed that needs a new clutch (and body panels, seat). Everytime I consider working on it I just think, you know it's not really worth it. Even mint they're kinda garbage.
5:58 Well you bought a female bike for female humans. Strait pipe is a male bike for male humans. So you should buy a male bike so that you wouldn't need any cutting.
Your welding journey has greatly improved, i'm a 16 year old welder, and I love to see the trial an error, rather than just perfect beads. It shows me reality, instead of frustration when i'm not perfect. I do look up to these videos, hoping one day to make my own Frankenstein abomination! 😆
You should have a look on old VelosoleX moped, the motor is directly conected to the front wheel tire via the crankshaft, extremely simple design, no clutch no starter nothing and you can keep the step-through frame as is !
In the 1950's we had a lot of normal bikes with small 2 stroke engines. They had a max speed of about 25-30 kph and were quite popular because you didn't need a drivers to ride them. Then the government gradually introduced new regulations, making those bikes obsolete. Today you require a license to drive them, so if you have the required driving license, you may as well drive a normal moped, that is more practical and is allowed to go faster.
I'm a bike mechanic by trade and have been unemployed for almost a year. When I saw the condition that bike was in, I was instantly overcome by a voice that screamed "Please let me back in the shop, please man, I've gotta work on that bike man, I've gotta fix it up, please man"
It sounds just like a proper old 2 stroke dirt bike from the 70's and the TPU belt is awesome i have never thought about using TPU for anything like that.
That belt design is truly excellent, try an expansion "box" it works for torquey early two stokes with similar ports to yours, just have the outlet smaller to allow reflecting wave some energy, look at pics for an early vespa px150 touring stock exhaust.
I had a great time watching this, it reminds me of 18 year ago when I build my first chainsaw powered bike ! Keep on learning by yourself, you're gonna go far !
When soldering... use flux. Tons of flux. Not sure if you're using enough flux? Use more flux. It is your best friend. Worst case you have more cleaning to do afterwards. It literally heat-corrodes your joining surfaces down to the desired material and the solder flows and wicks in so beautifully. Rough the surfaces up, get the sanded material out of there, and call the dump truck of flux.
also a heavier fly wheel would help the engine keep running older motors from the early days couldn't make a ton of horsepower so they made up for it by having a very heavy flywheel to build up more inertia also all that smoke might be a sign to bring down the oil mixture a bit too much oil could be making it bog down and lose power.
Your torch is woefully undersized for soldering such a large thermal mass. The reason your joints are all blobby is because the solder was solidifying too quickly due to the underheated metal drawing the heat away from the solder. Try a propane blow torch next time you want to solder such a large workpiece, and really give it what-for before you apply the solder - if it's hot enough, the solder should immediately melt on contact and "wet in" all the way around the joint in a thin layer. Or you could just thermal paste and tack weld it. 4:18 The toes of the weld aren't fully tied-in, which almost guarantees a lack of penetration. When you've got your arc going, don't worry about consistent timing and stacking dimes, that will come with practice, just focus on the puddle and ensuring that it fully mates with both edges of the joint. The piece here also has a fair amount of spatter, which would indicate either a problem with your shielding gas (kinked hose, CFH too low, etc), or insufficient cleaning of the substrate. I'm assuming this is TIG, but I see you do some MIG or flux-core later in the video. If it is MIG/FC, ignore this advice.
try running leaner mixture, 2t loves runnning lean, but not too lean or you may seaze it. Also propper exhaust would help. Play around with timing and check port timing. You may have excesive blowdown. For low rpm under 5k exhaust timing should be around 140 to 150 deg and transfers around 100. check also intake timing, that seems way off. Also crank compresion seems too low for low rpm. Try 6:1
the modern engine refinements add a few % , its great to see a raw engine running. I hope you can diagnose where the maximum benifit can be achived for the minimal complexity change. KISS. Great work.
The exhaust pipe is very important for a 2 stroke, you make more power with drawing fresh mixture into the exhaust and push back in when the intake port is closed.
The hooks on ratchet tie down straps are the same size as the lower gate/ trunk latch on most cars, so you can lock one end of the strap into the upper latch by pushing it in. Lets you tie directly between the points that are designed for it, and you can release it using the normal trunk release.
if you ever plan on building anything from sheet metal, get a makita js1660 or similar sheet metal shear. its a dream. it doesnt twist your workpiece on either side of the cut very much at all because it just cuts out a strip in the middle and it leaves a very nice finish on the edge that just needs minimal deburring with a file, a couple strokes at most
You should definitely look into the physics of 2-stroke motors. The reason for the mufflers ballooning then constricting is to help with proper combustion. Check out Big Time's most recent video for better understanding.
You need to use flux when soldering big stuff like this, flux core solder isn't going to cut it. You can see that the solder wasn't wetting the metal very well. Also the cylinder head needs much more cooling than than the cylinder, if you look at a conventional two stroke with a separate head you'll usually find they have bigger and/or more fins than the cylinder.
or in the Netherlands (or other countries where biking is a regular method of transport), just a bike, since it is easier to swing your leg over and bikes are just a usual method of transport so convenience is important
Given the enormous success you should build a two stroke v8 next because I have no idea what that would sound like. Machining a crank case even with three main bearings sounds like a challenge. You could first make(somehow) a working crankshaft, angle grind a rough shape the walls of a crankcase, plane the bottom side and tap threads and bolt in rough bearing caps also made from the same steel as the walls, then machine holes so the wall and bearing cap make a hole, attach the crankshaft to the loose walls and use it as a jig to weld the crankcase to the top deck of the engine you already made.
Replacing the spark plug and adjusting the carb before checking if you got gas is the true engineer move
it made me remember my time in the Formula SAE team
i spent like 2 days of pulling a little 212cc before checking the fuel line....
i know whats wrong with it, it aint got no gas in it
i spend 6 hours trying to figure out why my bike won't run till i remember that 1 time i remove the fuel filter and spill out all the fuel😂
777th like
Honestly, its genuinely impressive that you built a motor that moved the bike at all. Even the 50cc motors from ebay kits have trouble fully propelling a bike, and usually don't last much longer than your engine does. 100/10 badass execution of "know-how"
Those ebay engines are a complete scam, just take the engine out of a real 50cc bike and try to adapt it
@erixccjc2143 not all of them are garbage, people just don't wanna spend the money for the real manufacturers and get the cheapest kit they can find. I know someone that has gotten 500miles out of an ebay 50, i know someone thats gone through 3 of them, one of them bought legit, one shopped low to high. Also most of the 2smoke 50cc engines are all just clones even the ones that come in those new cheapo SSR 50s
the 66cc that they sell as 50's are fine get otta here
"It run fine before I took it apart."I feel you.
Haha so true
Haha so funny so true😂😂
Never Change a running system 😂
Amen brudder
I kind of have the opposite problem it doesn’t run and then I take it apart aannnd it still doesn’t run.
Knowing this pissed off an hoa is reason enough for me to love it. That said, there is a reason that not only are most single cylinder engines made of aluminum, but that the fins are cast as part of the case, rather than added later; and it's not just for cost savings.
@@hellcat1988 ayyy! Fellow sentient car!
@@Thatonedeinonychus911 Actually I adopted the name from the Grumman F6F.
Is it related to warping?
@@hellcat1988 Oh, that's a cool warbird. Heheh.
@@Chris-hall9080 Not knowledgeable about engines but it could be that the heat transfer is better when its one continuous piece of metal compared to multiple pieces soldered together
2023: i 3d printed an engine
2024: i made an engine out of hardware store parts
2025: i 3d printed a car for the hardware store engine
2026: i made a car out of hardware store parts
2027: i made a hardware store out of 3D printed parts
@@Collywood-Studios 2028 i made a hardware store out of hardware store parts
2029 i 3d printed a space station filled with a 3d printed hardware store, car, and spare engine
@@mikeyking7530 2030: I 3D printed a new planet to replace the dying earth.
@@Collywood-Studios 2031: I made a new planet out of hardware store parts to replace the dying 3d printed planet
10:52 print the belt hollow. Then pause the print like halfway through. Then insert fishing line (without moving anything). And continue printing. (You can do the same with magnets or hooks or hinges or whatever)
You’d have to be real quick though before the tpg gets too cold and the layers don’t stick together properly
Came to say this @@feelincrispy7053
Honestly, this isn't a bad result for a homemade engine. In one or two additional iterations you'll have one that can deliver and handle the torque without blowing itself up.
Today I learned what a step through bike was
lol
step through frame. a bike is a bike
@@StanleyKubick1 thank you for your pedantry
i still don't know what ligma is
@@manitoba-op4jx real
my fav yt series
fr😂❤
My man is doing r&d the good ol way, by building and testing over and over but he kinda is getting good at it, it ran for a lot and pushed you forward so it is amazing man
This is the second time this week I’ve seen a created print something you’d usually pay 50 dollars for out of TPU, and it actually worked.
'Soldering's gonna be fine'
It's a bold plan, Cotton. Let's see how it plays out.
Yea 😂
Is it just me or.does this guys say saudering instead of soldering
@@br-sb6vu That's how they pronounce it there wee laddy
@@vt7082 lol
A guy in soviet russia named Aleksander Pribyloy did something similar in 1950s and rode his homemade motorcycle to bicycle factory where everyone was amazed by his engine's construction. They gave him finances and workers and his engines and their modifications were produced in russia until late 2000s (D4 - D8 engines), and they're still produced in China (F50 engines)
Fun fact, you CAN use regular solder to solder steel parts together, how do you think they made lanterns waaay back in the day? The main thing with this is you MUST make sure the steel is clean. AKA no rust, no oils, and you'll need to use some acid to take off the very tiny layer of oxidation it naturally has from just being exposed to the air. I know this works because I've had to do it before and my father is the one whom taught me. We had to do it on an antique lantern I own that had an old seam on the tank start actively weeping whenever any fuel was put into it. (for the acid just make sure you're in a well ventilated space with a fan gently blowing air on and past you so as to blow the acid fumes away)
Will regular solder melt under the heat of the engine?
@@iiisaac1312 Normally, the temperatures of the outside of the cylinder and head of an air-cooled engine should remain below the melting temperatures of even a Sn 40 Pb 60 alloy, but in the case of a very hot engine the margin would not be huge and at temperatures close to the melting temperatures the mechanical strength might not be optimal. A lead-free alloy, which has a somewhat higher melting temperature, might be more suitable
@@iiisaac1312 Good question, theoretically it could if it goes above the melting temperature of the solder you use since they can have different melting temperatures. This temperature is all dependent on the alloy of the solder and the brand (alloy especially). Heck the special solder he used could even potentially melt depending on the temperature the engine gets to and the alloy the solder is. (I'm sorry this answer isn't a simple yes or no)
What would you use as acid? Are we talking vinegar, or stuff you need to source specifically from a chem supplier?
@@fallingwater Muriatic acid can be gotten at various hardware stores and is what my father and I used for soldering the tank on my lantern. Now keep in mind that the fumes can be toxic and you should be in a well ventilated area (outside preferably) and have a very light breeze blowing on you from a fan at a distance. For applying the acid you can get Acid Brushes from a place like Harbor Freight or Lowes and all you do is gently dip the brush into the acid, you don't need much, then you gently brush the acid onto the spot you are looking to solder. When you're working on this you should have a cup of water on hand for dipping the brush into as well as some baking soda for being able to neutralize acid in case you spill some. It works well but can be nasty if not treated with respect.
Aren't exposed battery contacts going to fry your balls?
only if you sweat enough
It's only 12V.
@@trentbikesyoo😂
@@CamdenBowen don't get too excited then and you'll be fine
No, theres not enough voltage or current in there to actually get through your balls even if they touched both contacts for some reason
the main problem is that you don't gain normal revs on this engine. a two-stroke engine likes high revs, and yours, judging by the sound, barely gains two or three thousand, which is very little for it. try again, but you need to rev the engine hard. listen to how the scooter sounds, and you'll understand everything
Think the issue is the friction and the compression seems really high. Then some tuning on carb should give most of the rest.
Yeah that idle is WAAAAY too low for a two stroke engine
2 stroke don't have to rev high and usually rev lower than 4 strokes (as long as we are not talking about high performance engines). Also high revs put lots of stresson every part, so it might break down even faster.
@@florianvelling64274t more revs than 2t? 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@Hamaglanever heard of sport bikes? And 4-stroke Motocross with their high revving?
Good luck on making a new engine, you're actually starting to get pretty good at making these homebrew engines, and your welding is getting much better, great job.
Thank you :)
thumb throttle is much smarter than twist throttle. Especially on anything experimental. Added that to my 319cc pocket bike for safety reasons when realizing the twist throttle is a safety issue.
Man I hope you end up making a go kart
“It ain’t got no gas in it”- Karl Childers
This reminds me of old soviet bicycle engines (like the krasniy oktyabir d4) these engines werent just made by soviets, but basically every country in the 1950s cuz they were a cheap way of motorized transportation. Some examples are the hungarian dongó, which is based on the italian mosquito garelli, the french la poulain and terrot serwa, the polish malcherek and the german m.a.w
Simson Schwalbe (DDR Bike) and other Simsons have a two stroke too :3
@knallerbserich oh yeah those mopeds, they were popular in hungary too. Their engines were legendarily good.
@@palcube2467 yes they are nearly indestructable :)
My thoughts exactly, having owned a D8 equipped Soviet motorized bike called "Кроха" ("Teensy", it was a little one indeed) hearing the sound unlocked all the memories.
Ducati came out with a motor kit for bikes after world War 2. Before that they used to make radios!
Impressive work.
When the fuel tank on the bike made its appearance😂. Just the contrast between all the ingenuity, work, time in the motor, and a water bottle fuel tank is great👍.
The true answer is always an expansion chamber, or just more cylinders
i mean, there's also just bigger cylinders
Really big cylinder was the solution way back in the day I think the Benz patent motorwagon was like a liter displacement and less than 1 hp and that was more or less the first "car"
this engine does not utilize its crank case for added compression, so alot of the compression is lost in higher engine speeds. this is because when not utilizing the crank case, it is unable to get all the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber.
This also makes it more likely for the engine to ruminate fuel shooting back into the intake causing a wrong mixture.
An expansion chamber would really help lot
@@jerem4068 Not really. 15-20% at best, and that is only in a very narrow RPM range.
You are like a modern day Glenn Curtis here. You remind me of myself when I was younger, when I spent a few years reinventing the Chinese firecracker.
Maybe I know what the problem is
You should reconsider the ignition, namely the moment of ignition. It should be 2-3 millimeters after the top dead center, then the engine power will be at the right time. It is also possible that you put piston rings with incorrect lock spread
It's like a couple of thoughts from me
Good luck with the project👍😁
Hi Camden! Let the crankshaft drive the wheel directly by friction between shaftend and tire. Easiest way to do it. For clutch use a movable motormount. Best place is on top of the rear wheel. Provides the necessary "gearing" without all the belts and pulleys. Been there done that and it works fine :)
Good luck from Germany
I love these series!
Because it washes away this perception of mine,
that ICE's could only be made with top tier tools and knowledge.
And here you are, making them from whatever you could find and they WORK despite everything!
Can't wait for new videos! ❤
A good efficient ICE can only be made with top tier tools and knowledge
@@alexstromberg7696 Didn't mention "good efficient" :)
Tho i agree
Here some words from me idk if I’d call it advice but I have been messing with single cylinder engines 2&4 stroke for a while now. Most 2 strokes have a nickel plated cylinder, for a reason. You need to work on your air/fuel mix so you can rev the engine and control RPM’s. You would be wise to make some attempt even if it’s tacky at an expansion pipe. Also a small CVT would be extremely worthwhile in the situation. Your gear setup while fascinating and clever I believe is to much drag on the entire system. Maybe a CVT would be also, I’m not sure, but revving the engine higher is essential. You need more power. Also I commend you for doing this, I’ve always considered it but never attempted it. You’re doing great, keep it up man.
So I rebuild chainsaw engines for a hobby and one thing I have looked into is using stainless steel as a cylinder sleeve, or a molybdenum alloy. These would give you a better cylinder wall, but stainless might give you trouble with heat transfer. I also suggest you look into a higher transfer port design. Overall though very impressive what you have accomplished
Great project, I love it. I used to make that sort of stuff 50 yrs ago. You have too many friction losses in the gear train. If you make a small pulley on your motor shaft about 75mm to the shape of the tire & run that directly onto the rear wheel you will cut those losses & the gearing will be about right. Also you can peddle to start the engine. That is the way I used to run two stroke lawn mower engines on my bike. was great fun.
I've literally been waiting for more videos. I'm so invested. I'd love to see a larger engine with more power! Maybe even a 4stroke in the future!
The fun part is that drill you used to start it got more torque and power and would be better to run a bike 😅
(I know, that's not about it)
@1:50 you need a plasma cutter.
That was a glorious start to my Wednesday morning, great work Camden. Onwards to bigger engines!
ayy 13:20 your from Ontario to!! You should probably blur your plate.
properly soldering sould help, too. Cleaning, pickleing, and adding flux? plus, maybe heating the metal instead of the solder?
Bigger intake port,heavier flywheel? Expansion chamber,true 50cc displacement,all of these will hopefully help.
Side note I tried a bigger carb on my gas powered bike and it has lot more torque
I'm so happy for you. Thank you for taking on on your journey. Making a whole engine completely from scratch is so dang impressive.
0:56 Imagine you were the bike longing for him to give you the tender loving car you deserve only for you to be turned into a 2-stroke engine test bench
That is honestly astounding for an engine primarily made out of hardware store junk. Incredible work, keep it up!
14:47 poor thing
Smoking like a grandma
I feel bad for both the drill and the engine
My video buffered and when I look at the comments I see it buffered at the exact time you said
Full billet aluminum cylinder jug and head, you can cut the fins out with a milling machine and bore the cylinder to fit the piston of your choice with proper tolerances 😎
I check every day if there is a new video, even though I am subscribed to you anyway🎉🎉
Feels like im watching a video from the 19th century when they were first starting to make bikes. Keep up the good work looking forward to see the progress
I’ve been waiting to see this second I saw it I was shaking
This must be the sketchiest channel on youtube. I love it
Thansk for new episode❤❤
I find it funny how this homemade bike is both faster and runs better than my Honda Spree. I find this insane. 😂 Amazing work.
Lol. I have an '86 spree in the shed that needs a new clutch (and body panels, seat). Everytime I consider working on it I just think, you know it's not really worth it. Even mint they're kinda garbage.
CAST YOUR NEW ENGINEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
you didnt have to throw the innocent drill like that vro 😭
5:58 Well you bought a female bike for female humans. Strait pipe is a male bike for male humans. So you should buy a male bike so that you wouldn't need any cutting.
😆 Ya beat me to it
combine 4 of those engines and make an inline 4 or even a boxer - that would definitely give it some power
Your welding journey has greatly improved, i'm a 16 year old welder, and I love to see the trial an error, rather than just perfect beads. It shows me reality, instead of frustration when i'm not perfect. I do look up to these videos, hoping one day to make my own Frankenstein abomination! 😆
You should have a look on old VelosoleX moped, the motor is directly conected to the front wheel tire via the crankshaft, extremely simple design, no clutch no starter nothing and you can keep the step-through frame as is !
Camden bowen was able to build this in a shed... With a box of scraps! - Marvel movie or something
Yess
One other video from one of my favorite creators.
Keep it up 😊
how could you be so great at making everything, engines, solders, videos and jokes
You should now try to make little expansion chamber for the exhaust pipe, it may add little bit more power to the engine compared to straight pipe
Looks like you should charge the HOA for insect spraying
This is such a cool project and probably my favorite 2 videos on the internet. Can't wait for the 3rd one
Yesterday me and my friends were discussing how hard it is to build an engine from scratch , im sending him this , thanks for this video 🎉
In the 1950's we had a lot of normal bikes with small 2 stroke engines. They had a max speed of about 25-30 kph and were quite popular because you didn't need a drivers to ride them.
Then the government gradually introduced new regulations, making those bikes obsolete. Today you require a license to drive them, so if you have the required driving license, you may as well drive a normal moped, that is more practical and is allowed to go faster.
Add a analog speedometer to calculate the speed ( wires are required to calculate the speed)
your soldering technique still causes me immense physical pain
10/10
I'm a bike mechanic by trade and have been unemployed for almost a year. When I saw the condition that bike was in, I was instantly overcome by a voice that screamed "Please let me back in the shop, please man, I've gotta work on that bike man, I've gotta fix it up, please man"
16:05 Last time i've seen such loud silent rage, SSoHPKC misplaced his last glass block and fumbled a perfectly good window
It sounds just like a proper old 2 stroke dirt bike from the 70's and the TPU belt is awesome i have never thought about using TPU for anything like that.
Your voice sounds like the 'How To Pick Up a Duck' guy's but deeper
Camden-Your metalworking skills are supreme! Great video and commentary also!:)-John in Texas
That belt design is truly excellent, try an expansion "box" it works for torquey early two stokes with similar ports to yours, just have the outlet smaller to allow reflecting wave some energy, look at pics for an early vespa px150 touring stock exhaust.
Cant's wait to see you build the next engine !! 1000cc monocylinder ? 😂
I am building a 1.0L boxer 4! It is going to be insane!
I had a great time watching this, it reminds me of 18 year ago when I build my first chainsaw powered bike ! Keep on learning by yourself, you're gonna go far !
Always wanted to put an engine on a bike myself
You really want to properly heat the part instead of the solder when soldering, and use plenty of flux!
When soldering... use flux. Tons of flux. Not sure if you're using enough flux? Use more flux. It is your best friend. Worst case you have more cleaning to do afterwards. It literally heat-corrodes your joining surfaces down to the desired material and the solder flows and wicks in so beautifully. Rough the surfaces up, get the sanded material out of there, and call the dump truck of flux.
The stuff I was using was acid-flux core, though in hindsight I would have benefited from alot more
cant wait for the next video in 3 months!!! love these builds so much
also a heavier fly wheel would help the engine keep running older motors from the early days couldn't make a ton of horsepower so they made up for it by having a very heavy flywheel to build up more inertia also all that smoke might be a sign to bring down the oil mixture a bit too much oil could be making it bog down and lose power.
Your torch is woefully undersized for soldering such a large thermal mass. The reason your joints are all blobby is because the solder was solidifying too quickly due to the underheated metal drawing the heat away from the solder. Try a propane blow torch next time you want to solder such a large workpiece, and really give it what-for before you apply the solder - if it's hot enough, the solder should immediately melt on contact and "wet in" all the way around the joint in a thin layer. Or you could just thermal paste and tack weld it.
4:18 The toes of the weld aren't fully tied-in, which almost guarantees a lack of penetration. When you've got your arc going, don't worry about consistent timing and stacking dimes, that will come with practice, just focus on the puddle and ensuring that it fully mates with both edges of the joint. The piece here also has a fair amount of spatter, which would indicate either a problem with your shielding gas (kinked hose, CFH too low, etc), or insufficient cleaning of the substrate. I'm assuming this is TIG, but I see you do some MIG or flux-core later in the video. If it is MIG/FC, ignore this advice.
try running leaner mixture, 2t loves runnning lean, but not too lean or you may seaze it. Also propper exhaust would help. Play around with timing and check port timing. You may have excesive blowdown. For low rpm under 5k exhaust timing should be around 140 to 150 deg and transfers around 100. check also intake timing, that seems way off. Also crank compresion seems too low for low rpm. Try 6:1
the modern engine refinements add a few % , its great to see a raw engine running. I hope you can diagnose where the maximum benifit can be achived for the minimal complexity change. KISS. Great work.
The exhaust pipe is very important for a 2 stroke, you make more power with drawing fresh mixture into the exhaust and push back in when the intake port is closed.
6:59 this is such a simple but efficient solution to mounting. Love it
The hooks on ratchet tie down straps are the same size as the lower gate/ trunk latch on most cars, so you can lock one end of the strap into the upper latch by pushing it in. Lets you tie directly between the points that are designed for it, and you can release it using the normal trunk release.
Bro is gonna build a terrible next
I really Respect the amount of time and effort you put into your videos! Fantastic jobb man and keep going I believe in you!
if you ever plan on building anything from sheet metal, get a makita js1660 or similar sheet metal shear. its a dream. it doesnt twist your workpiece on either side of the cut very much at all because it just cuts out a strip in the middle and it leaves a very nice finish on the edge that just needs minimal deburring with a file, a couple strokes at most
Very underrated RUclipsr. Not even 200k??? I cry for you😭
~I’m a subscribed fan👍🏼
You're my hero for going this far with it.
You should definitely look into the physics of 2-stroke motors. The reason for the mufflers ballooning then constricting is to help with proper combustion. Check out Big Time's most recent video for better understanding.
As always, you’re mechanical engineer goals mate
Dude, your videos are fantastic. Im so keen to see what you do in future.
Thanks dude!
Keep going! Truly impressive engineering skills. Larger displacement will help torque. You are awesome!
You should make an expansion chamber for it
These are quite possibly the best welds I’ve ever seen
love your efforts into mechanics; keep on keeping on brother.
You need to use flux when soldering big stuff like this, flux core solder isn't going to cut it. You can see that the solder wasn't wetting the metal very well. Also the cylinder head needs much more cooling than than the cylinder, if you look at a conventional two stroke with a separate head you'll usually find they have bigger and/or more fins than the cylinder.
5:54 that's because that's a woman's bike. Traditionally they put the bar lower so they can ride with a skirt.
or in the Netherlands (or other countries where biking is a regular method of transport), just a bike, since it is easier to swing your leg over and bikes are just a usual method of transport so convenience is important
I love your narration by the way haha it's great. Keep making content!
You should add a transmission to make the engine not stall. Just giving out raw power Isn't a good idea...
Given the enormous success you should build a two stroke v8 next because I have no idea what that would sound like. Machining a crank case even with three main bearings sounds like a challenge. You could first make(somehow) a working crankshaft, angle grind a rough shape the walls of a crankcase, plane the bottom side and tap threads and bolt in rough bearing caps also made from the same steel as the walls, then machine holes so the wall and bearing cap make a hole, attach the crankshaft to the loose walls and use it as a jig to weld the crankcase to the top deck of the engine you already made.