GearBoxVideo ... Very impressed... I have a Muncie 4 spd in my impala with a Vertigate shifter, love it but with these times I need a up-scale trans like the Richmond 5 spd. But don't want to loose my Vertigate...what is your comment?
please help me reply me i have a problem i m using ford fiesta 2009 tdci engine today im facing some problem with my gear shifting when i move my car with 1 2 3 it has some weird sound but when i use top gear it doesnt have any sound and car runs smooth whats the problem please reply im your subscriber pls tell whats the problem...
Hello Paul ? George here (67 yr old) I figured out how the synchro rings did their job when I repaired my first Ford (3sp, smile) TL back in about 1965. Their action and the end result of them being there is very difficult to describe verbally. You did a very good job in this video for those who have never held the parts in their hands. I was watching today to try and learn about the 2 and 3 cone synchro that my new Mustang GT has in it. Thank you!
You are the first person I have seen to acknowledge the "blocking" condition and fully explain why. I have asked that question many times and gotten nothing but a bewildered look from those I have asked. My top loaders always have that problem after a while from power shifting.
My man Paul dropping the knowledge. These videos are so indepth and informative. Most videos just do a brief explanation with no example so seeing the parts and watching your demonstrations really help someone like me who's just afraid to open up the trans and get lost with all the moving parts. So thanks man.
Long time mechanical engineer but I've only worked on motorcycle transmissions that don't use synchros. Never really understood how they work. Great explanation. Love picking up tidbits like this even if I never use it.
Finally some one who explains how it really works! The important part for understanding how and why a synchro works is the indexing to the hub gear and the friction on the speed gear.
Got here because you replied to a comment of mine on a different video asking how the gears re-engage … 10 years after you posted this!! Amazing - I’m very impressed.👏👏👏 Thank you so much for replying, for the referral, and for the excellent explanation(s). I’ve never even heard of synchro rings - spent my career at a desk. It’s never too late to learn. 👍🙂
Man I love these videos that demonstrate the inner working of the transmission. While I will probably never disassemble the transmission myself, I learned a whole lot about transmission from watching your videos.
Finally the answer to the question that was bothering me for a week now has been answered. I could not understand what is the mechanism of determining when the shaft speeds have been synchronized, and how the gear teeth are aligned for smooth shifting. Brilliant!
Best video I've ever seen on how synchro rings work! Most other videos show the cone clutch speeding up/slowing down the gear to match the slider, but don't go into detail about how the blocker ring stops the slider from engaging until synchronization is complete. Also, now I know why my old car sometimes just wouldn't shift into first. Thanks :)
When you started out Paul, I thought this was gonna be one of those dodgy videos that didn't really explain much at all, but that was excellent and AT LAST I now know how synchros work - thank you so much
Thanks to this video I was able to fix my Case 580k backhoe that was immobile because of a key jamming the sync mechanism. After seeing how it went together I was able to fix it with no parts and drive it home. It was broke down in a field. Thanks!
Your expertise has really paid off for me, I noticed after I reassembled my main shaft on my Muncie that the front synchro/gearset was frozen up, so I popped the snap ring off, pressed the assy off and found out the synchro was one of the wide setups, unlike the other set, so I grabbed the old synchro rings I removed and put the shorter set back on.Teeth were good, so all is well. Im glad I bought your book and watched all of your Muncie videos. Keep up the good work! Oh yeah, thanks for a quality rebuild setup too. :)
Amazing video! I've been watching videos from german transmission manufacturers (I'm from there) but no one explained it so quick and easy. And they used animations.
I had a 68 Road Runner 383 with 4 speed trans. The third gear syncro was bad so it would grind going into third. Now I understand how it was worn. Great explanation. You really know your stuff.
After 5 years through the magic of RUclips I randomly find out why my Cruiser sometimes refuses to go into first gear....no grinding, just won't shift until i blip the gas pedal. Worn first gear syncro, like you said, blockout condition. Thanks mate!!
I used to build gearboxes for a living for the UK market. for the Ford Transit, the newer coated ring was often disgarded in favour of the older brass ring, as often the coating would break up on the newer rings. VW thought they were making the gearchange for 1st and 2nd smoother on the 0A4 boxes, which replaced the 02J box by using smaller dogteeth. to this day, this is a design fault, as the hub outer slide ring hits the 1st gear dogteeth with the 3 part syncro offering no breaking effort on the gear. This leads to the hub slider teeth burring over, and then prevents it from traveling into 2nd gear. And finally, the UK Toyota MR2/Avensis/Cellica gearbox uses a cheaper bearing over the import model. when it fails, the damage to the gearbox is quite destructive, but dispite the mass trauma, some good cleaning up with debur tools and a new CWP, along with a rewelded and machined rear case puts it back on the road.
+Allan Dawes Have you opened a Celica GT4 (E154) gearbox before? I'm thinking of rebuilding the engine and the synchros because its kind of notchy to get into second and third gear at speed. A guy called Ryan here on YT has made videos about it and it seems simple enough.
+MityLite Ive done the 5 speed manual box's. The 5th hub is the only tricky bit to get off. I usually unbolt the 5th fork from the shaft and slide the outer hub and fork off, and recover the strikers and wire clip. Note the orientation of the strikers. Then remove the C clip. I used a 2 legged puller, but half stripped down and using 2 M8 bolts, but make sure the thread goes all the way to the end of the bolts, and doesnt have a taper on the end. Screw the bolts into the hub center with the puller in place, and carefully work it up. When you refit, make sure to have a block of wood supporting the input shaft, and use a tube drift to knock the hub back on. You can have it complete when you knock it back on. Give the striker clips a slight strech to give them a little extra hold. Won't cause any problems with gearchange. When you press the gearshaft, have the spitters under 4th,then 2nd - pressing the whole lot from 2nd will chip teeth. Then remove the C clip and press 1st. There is a little ball under the washer below 1st. Note the syncros are sided, so dont swap them around, else it will be hard to get gear. If your having 1st and 2nd issues though, it is most likely the clutch. The bearing under 5th usually breaks up and locks the box up.
As the ring pushes onto the clutch, that creates torque (?) against the teeth of the slider that prevents the slider from sliding until that torque lessens when the speeds are aligned. Man, mechanical engineers are something else. Do I have all that right? Thanks again for talking to me. It's amazing that all this is accomplished with one solid piece of metal.
My Old Man used to say "Grind me off a pound" and I had a friend that would say "I heard they making them out of rubber next year." Another great video.
I appreciate the inner working of a manual transmission now, thank you. I've had a 66 327 corvette since 1978, it always would pop out of 2nd gear when you let off the gas, I've never repaired in over 40 years, I believe its a Muncie, someone called it a "rock crusher". I'd like to have it repaired, now I know what's involved. Great video, thanks again.
My 69 Firebird had a muncie that use-ta do that. Even with a new blocker ring. I remember a Co. that sold a syncro assy, to cure that problem, that wasn't too expensive. I can't remember the details of the replacement parts, that compensated for what-ever caused that ailment, cause it was so many tears ago. But I do remember it fixed the problem. I think it's a common problem with some muncies. Maybe the 2nd gear gets a little wear on it's bore, and rocks. (?)
Great video! Thank you very much, that helped me understand how a gearbox works and that made my automotive engineering student life easier. You are awesome sir!
Slots open up from wear and the keys don't usually remain in the same position because the gear's thrust force changes when you are on and off the gas, pushing the ring and key back towards the hub. The gear is helical so acceleration and deceleration will move the gear towards and away from the hub.
Awesome video! I learned a lot from it. Now i am not afraid of the transmission anymore! Please do more video on all the mechanics parts on cars in the future. Already subscribed.
It's obvious you are into these trans and your excitement comes through in your voice. You were on a roll in this video and you made everything perfectly simple to follow. I especially like the fact that you show how each style has it's good points and weaknesses. The aspect of the correct type Lube was awesome and to the point. I hear of so many guys wanting to go away from the recommended and try some Snake Oil from some salesman. Now you talk about disaster waiting to happen. It was really nice to see someone else point out how not to mismatch components. I hear guys tell me they took two trans and made one. Later I get it in with shifting issues...and then they wonder why it needs so many replacement components. It's like you pointed out, Rebuilding the engine and replacing all the internal components converts into trans rebuilds. You don't just replace what looks bad or is worn without considering the whole unit. I don't get how that notion all started but it's been that attitude for ages. Some people just don't have a concept of how these work and only know how to change parts but not how to build. I know you'll know what that means. Anyway, another great informative video and I learned some more new things again. Thanks. I find so many sites that show some guy doing some kind of build with his special trick or new component. Have you ever noticed how their project is at one level of completion, the video breaks away and all of a sudden a ton of work's been done? Then when the guy comes back he starts talking like he did all the work off camera...The presenter has perfectly manicured hands, clean fingernails and clean clothes while you see a worker in the background working on a similar mechanical unit? IT always cracks me up. My point is I don't get that impression with you and you add more comments supporting what you're showing. It's certain to me that you are no pretender and I appreciate all the information you share. I am impressed and now a faithful follower of your channel. Keep up the great work. Robert (Auto Doc)
+Tony Posluszy Your security permissions don't allow me to reply to your comments. Just because you have new synchros installed doesn't mean they are good quality ones.
Besides OEM what brand names are good when it comes to transmission parts? What do your kits come with? Timken bearings? National Seals? Need to know the best brands for these parts... (like the PowerStroke 6.0L engine, cheap parts generally become disastrous and sometimes come back to haunt you)
There are no good brands as a blanket brand. Example; some SKF /CR seals are really bad and short lived compared to some Tawanese seals. It's about quality parts and experience. I have built 1000's of transmissions, so you get to know what works best for you.
Now this is exactly how videos should be made, no bull just straight forward easy to understand Transmission for Dummies information. Thank you GearWorldTV just subscribed
Great video. I've seen a ton of videos that just say "syncros work by matching the speeds of the gears" but never really understood the details. Thanks for putting up a video with some real understanding and technical detail.
What about an nv5600? It grinned for a bit when using the clutch then I started rev matching without the clutch. I changed fluids and now I lost 5th gear. When I try to put it in 5th it just feels like nothings there
Your video just made the light turn on over my son's head. Now he understands what I've been trying to explain to him about why his third gear grinds if your not careful to match the engine and road speed to help it. Thanks a million.
Synchro rings are also called blocking rings. If you have a bad ring, you get grinding when trying to shift. As the keys apply pressure to the ring the ring turns with the gear which starts the whole indexing process. The slider can't get past the ring until it indexes in the opposite direction.
Absolutely stunning! Brilliantly detailed explanation of synchro function. Over 1.6 Million views! Posted 11 years ago AND YOU'RE STILL RESPONDING TO ENQUIRIES! Simply stunning! Paul, you've blown my mind. Would gladly travel a thousand miles just to shake your hand. I am impressed beyond words! I can't travel that thousand miles because my boots would get soggy long before I made it to you, since I'm in Queensland Australia. I run 1980s 60Series LandCruisers with locally built GM Holden 5L V8 power. (Similar to smallblock Chev.) These engines have long torque curves & they make good usable HP at significantly higher revs. LandCruiser gearboxes are painfully slow to synchronise mainly because the ratio spread is excessively wide to suit lugger engines that do not rev, the rotating mass of the cluster & associated gears is heavy & the synchros don't cope when the engine is revved. Even double clutching on down shifting when climbing hills pulling a heavily loaded trailer is a fail since LC box takes so long to synchronise & downshift, you're almost rolling backwards trying to get down through the box. Grade angle changes on hills I travel over vary part way up. You rev the pick handles out of your engine in second on a lesser gradiant & end up rolling backwards trying to engage third. You lose momentum & the excessive hike from second up to third coupled up to slow shift causes stall in third gear & you're forced to re-engage second... You rev your engine to death for no gain. Standard HOLDEN gearbox behind 1990s 5L V8 is rugged common global T5 with brilliant short throw shift, closer ratios & very rapid synchronisation. I have several T5 boxes. I looked at using a Jeep renegade T5 gearbox case & transfer case with Holden internals as a conversion. That poses a problem. LandCruiser transfer kicks right to align with RIGHT SIDE DRIVESHAFTS, WHILE JEEP TRANSFER KICKS LEFT. Will common global V8 T5 internals graft into a Jeep Case? Must get a beautiful T5 into a LandCruiser behind my V8, preferably with original LC Transfer Case. Any advice or suggestion would be helpful. We have engineering capabilities & can cut mainshafts down if need be to accept an adaptor between T5 box & LC Transfer case. Speedo cable isn't a concern. Is it likely a Jeep Transfer could be rotated on the back of the box to swing right instead of left? Is it likely a Jeep Transfer would bolt up to a common T5 box with rear extension housing removed & mainshaft shortened? Does anyone over there fit T5s into old 1980s LandCruisers? I rarely use 4 Wheel Drive. I often use Low Range to reverse trailers & manouvre around in tight areas. I understand the T5 2.54:1 First Gear will be much higher than the LC Million to One First Gear. I'll run a sintered bronze solid button clutch if needed. One of my engines runs a big overlap cam & spins nicely to 7000 RPM. I cannot use THAT engine with the hopeless original LandCruiser gearbox. I have lower profile tyres we can use to lower gearing instead of swapping crown & pinnion sets. I haven't found a single LandCruiser with a T5 anywhere in Australia & most of the Jeeps we see here are automatics. I've looked at this headache on & off for several years now. I have a Nissan 720 Divorced Transfer Case I can JackShaft in behind a standard length T5, but that involves a cradle fabricated into the chassis, a 50 foot long transfer lever, an entirely new longer front driveshaft & a ridiculously short rear one, PLUS 720 Divorced Transfer Cases are fairly rare, I have no spare & the one I have looks tiny & feeble to me. It would be a disaster to re-engineer the old truck around the Nissan Case & have it disintegrate behind the punchy little V8... It gets worse: I'd also likely have to lose my long range belly tank to fit the Nissan case so far back in the chassis. Can you help with this oddball problem? I'd buy an adaptor- T5 to Toyota Transfer tomorrow if I knew where to find one.
We do a lot of high speed highway towing in hilly country. Have had LandCruiser box just start to weld gears onto her mainshaft & changed gears in the nick of time before welding became permanent. I believe T5 overdrive is much steeper than barely noticeable slight LandCruiser overdrive. This enables lowering final drive ratio without losing top gear overall speed. LandCruiser ratios are pretty sad. Both my LC boxes are tired & suffering. One jumps out of 3rd & 4th on deceleration which is pesky when crawling down steep grades fully loaded. 4th will hold her with no trailer. 3rd works with the trailer & both were jumping out when I bought the old girl back in 2018. The other truck still runs original 2H diesel Tojo 6 Banger & she jumps out of 5th instantly when you lift your foot off the loud pedal. You literally must hold her in 5th gear the entire time at highway speeds. I'm used to that. I don't abuse gearboxes. I drive quickly without hurting my gearbox. Both these Japanese turds of gearboxes had these issues when we bought the vehicles. Nothing has deteriorated, there are no bearing noises. The box that jumps out of 3rd & 4th is behind the V8 & it's just a loose & chattery tired old box exactly as it was when we got her. Truck was V8 when we bought her & box has stood up OK all things considered. I cannot justify rebuilding these horrid gearboxes when I have perfect T5s on the shelf. Am gearing up to replace engines in both trucks soon & would like to resolve gearbox issues at the same time. Have to fit fairly big header system with one of my high performance engines & I hope to set those pipes up around the entire engine & box/transfer as an assembly. Can't really proceed until we solve the gearbox problem. An adaptor would be my best option.
The Jeep is in the non world class version and therefore is much weaker than the holding T5. I do have some Holden parts actually here most of them were 2.95 ratio. It's a better version and from the parts I have here they were world class. At least these were. I'm not too familiar with transfer case hookups and how they would work but I guess anything is possible
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks for getting back to me. As far as I am aware, EVERY T5 ever fitted to any Holden was the stronger gearbox. They were only fitted behind torquey Australianised 3.8L Buick V6s & also torquey 5.0L V8s. I have at least 6 V6 boxes & 4 V8 boxes. The V8 box runs a shorter input shaft & that would keep the transfer close to it's original location. I can easily shift the compact Holden V8 & box assembly forward in the long straight 6 engine bay if need be. The problem is grafting a transfer case onto the back of the Aust T5 & keeping the driveshafts on the right side. I'm in a fairly remote area & there are no conversion gurus to be found. I figured fitting strong T5s behind SmallBlocks into 4X4s over there would be fairly common. It looks like I'm on my own with this one. Thanks again. You're doing an incredibly good job. People like you are extremely rare nowadays.
Very good video with excellent info .I remember our teacher in trade school back in the early 70's explaining this to us with text and hands on and i never forgot it.
Hello Great Video btw ! I have an issue when car is in running it couldn't downshift from 3rd or 4th or 5th to 2nd and 1st.. So i cant downshift either to first or 2nd while in running. I have to stop car or near to idle then need to shift to 1st gear by double pressing the clutch then 2nd gear , then works like butter 3,4,5. So whats the problem and what to repair/replace. Mine is suzuki swift Vdi 2013 1.3L diesel engine, manual transmission , front wheel drive. And i am from India. I need a suggestion as quick as possible.
Local Garage man said it would be synchromesh rings and locks for 1st and 2nd gears, and also he said hardly it will cost 100 bucks total here. Is it correct or problem with clutch release only ? I dont know anything. Help me out . Thanks for the reply too
Thanks for the answer. I just bought the used car 3 weeks ago 98.5K kms on the odo. we replaced all oils,filters, ****"clutch plate, bearing"*** in local garage. Here it costs total 350$ to do that including labour charge etc. Just driven 500 km so far. This car(swift 2013 VDI) total costs me till now 10 grand . Hardly the problem is with the 1st gear first which is rare cases shift to first gear, no problem at all. Later 2 days back it came for the second gear too, this cause me more problem while slow traffic, which is either going to stall in 3rd or stop the car in neutral ( which are both cause traffic problems),then i can shift to 1st and 2nd. In my observation i saw i can shift to 3rd to 2nd after hardly press brake and seen less than 15 km/hr speed. What was the problem? Tell me what to do. I will proceed with your answer. I consider your previous comment also. But i need to explain you the whole case because you dont know what was exact problem without checking the car. Thank you once again.
Beautiful beautiful video. I've always been baffled by synchronizers. And for the first time today I've fully understood the whole functioning of this machinery. Kudos to you good sir. My mind is blown.
You have earned a new subscriber! Being an Automotive enthusiast all my life, I have always wanted to be a fly on the wall of a great machinist!!! GREAT VIDEO!!!
I just finished up rebuilding /restoring my super t-10! Actually quite easy. Thanks Paul for your videos and your book! Hardest parts of the process was loading up the needles in the counter shaft, but using thick sticky tranny grease and putting it in the freezer for later use, made it very easy. Dropping the rear extension housing onto the rest of the case, and aligning the reverse shift fork on the reverse gear went really well. Pressing on the gears and bearings onto the main shaft was also really easy. Installing the front input shaft bearing was a little bit tricky, I had to tap it on while giving a bit of heat from a torch (non-sealed bearings). Install the large od snap ring around the bearing and keep on tapping until you can get the washer on and slide on the snap ring. For what it was, it went pretty damn good. Thanks Paul.
this is so far the best explained video on synchros on all of youtube ive seen so far. been having synchro issues in my Honda Prelude H22, explains alot of the WHY. thank you!
Thank you, 50th video on youtube finally one that explained it really simply and clearly. You have a knack for making this stuff stick in your memory and be unintimidating
Well I be damned, so that's why the T5 has always been the best shifting transmission ever. I've had 3550's, TKO 500's, and T5's in my Mustangs and the T5 has always been the smoothest shifting of the bunch. Thanks for showing that Paul. You da man!!!
I like the Automobile engineering , especially the gear shifting system narrated by experts. Being to go to bed I will promtly attend the class next day.Thank you.Good night.
WOW, awesome video. I've watched so many over the last 24 hours trying to understand my issue with my T56 but this is a really amazing video. I've got an occasional grind during downshifting into 4th after doing a 26 Spline swap on my Tremec T56. I can let the RPMs go to idle then make the shift and it goes in but not as smooth as the rest if the gears. I opened it back up, and I found 2 broken keys in the 3-4 syncronizer. I'm hoping that just replacing those keys will get me back on the road again without any more issues. I'm guessing it isn't syncing correctly with 2 broken keys
The broken keys happen because the synchro rings wear and move closer to the gears. This creates a larger gap and allows keys to jam and break. Rings need to be changed that work with those keys
Great description, Gearboxes and their inner workings are like mysterious 3-D Jigsaw puzzles! Not so much now since I've been tutored by the best - Thanks Paul!
I've just blown first gear in my truck and didn't know what it meant to stuff the synchros Thank you for uploading this, I now understand, pretty important when you're a car chick 👌🏽
Thank you very much! This is the first time I really understand syncro-rings! I can't actually understand why others can't explain it that way! I saw several videos and they just don't show the things like that!
I just bought a Toyota Supa T combi, it was used for transport business, now I realised that the gears made a cracking sound, thats from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 but 4-5 is just fine, so I figured its a gearbox problem! Firstly the alignment of synchro rings was wrong because the gears were mixed, that is where there was to be 1, it was 3 and 4 for 2! Thank you
Thank you, that helps. I teach metalwork & run a metal shop at Pratt institute... I feel it’s very important for people who know what their doing & love what they do, have the ability to explain it well, to teach & share to students who truly want to learn. you do that, thank you. I have some of your books & enjoy reading them. The pictures & text are super helpful, Be well, Adam
Excellent video. I watched several videos covering broader concepts of manual transmissions but none of them fully broke down what was happening with the synchronization rings. My amateur mind wasn't understanding where the transfer of power from the input was occurring. All of the models and animations cover up this action with the shift forks or gears, so you can't see what's happening beneath. It makes a lot more sense now. Thanks.
Yes. Most rings are simple cone clutches. Because the ring is spinning at the same speed as the output shaft ( which is connected to your driveshaft ). You are synchronizing the drive gear to the output.
The rings track with the slider and the keys or struts are designed ( by indexing ) not to allow the bronze ring to ever go point to point with the slider. Once the slider goes over the ring, try and remember that the ring is attached to the gear and the gear can still move left or right because the keys allow for it. So the slider just moves the gear over. If you obviously have blunt non pointy teeth, you'll end up with block outs and hard shifting.
Nobody in the other videos mentioned the the mass/inertia of the gears locking the ring until it slows down enough to "blip" backwards like you mentioned thank you sir i better understand now
Hi Paul, Just to say thanks for a great set of videos. Just rebuilt my 1970s Land Rover gearbox and used a lot of your tips. Gearbox now back in the truck and working, seemed a bit tight on the shift at first but seems to be getting easier. Thanks again. Graham
Thanks for posting this. I've been driving stick shifts for almost 40 years and never had a clear idea of how synchros worked. Your explanation of the newer non-bronze multipart rings also explains why I have to run $20 qt Castrol Syntorq instead of $2 qt generic 90 wt gear lube in the NV-4500 5-speed in my '98 Dodge Cummins.
First it would be helpful to know what make and model car you have and what brand oil was used. Sounds like the wrong oil and if the transmission bwas removed the hydraulics may not have been bled correctly.
Great video! I'm doing a level 2 IMI qualification, and part of that is understanding how transmissions work, and your video shows in great details how the syncro's work. Thanks!
Thanks. Great explanation and I've finally got the hang of how synchroniser rings work. Feedback - the banging of the rings on the steel table is a bit distracting, and your hands move so quickly it's like watching a card trick. Thanks again for uploading.
And now I finally know how these work! I have the trany from my WRX open right now for a grinding 4th. Turned out to be a shift fork worn almost completely away but this helped me inspect the synchros
The best time of my life was on the football field and Going through the gears on my M22 with V-gate 69 camaro . Going Through the gears was so freaking cool.😎 I miss those days!!
I always understood how the cone shape causes the gears to match RPM, but I never understood how the blocking mechanism worked - until this video. Thanks!
Well after watching a fair few videos now, especially this one, I'm sold, bought your book, I don't even care that I currently don't have a trans to work on, it's just super interesting, thanks so much Paul!
This is a good video for someone who already knows the basics of transmissions. I need to find a video explaining transmissions on the first grade level.
Thank you. Thank you for clearing up the "black magic" and wizardry surrounding synchro rings... always wondered how they worked and what caused this stuff to fail. Fantastic explanation; great video; awesome information. Stuff like this is what the internet was intended to help with. THANK YOU!!!
Very nice video. Years ago I raced a 55 chev in AHRA H stock with a T10 I bought completely disassembled in a box . Was really fun for a young kid to figure out how put it together and invent tricks to hold needle bearings in place with grease and use a cut off counter shaft to assemble it. One trick I did was grind all the teeth off the blocking rings ! Man that was the best shifting transmission for drag racing.........didn't even use the clutch, it would shift as fast as your hand could move. Down-shifting was another story!!!
Synchros are such a great mechanism. Simple yet effective solution to a seemingly impossible problem of synchronizing speeds. But after looking at the solution I wonder if I could have come up with such a solution myself.
Thanks Paul, I get it now thanks to your demo. I'm bought a rebuild kit for my 1977 super t10 that has problems engaging 3rd but if 3rd is already engaged it can go from a dead stop in my 57 chev & will never fall out of gear. My 1-2 shifts fine but you cannot downshift into 2nd. Now its on the bench & I notice that the 3-4 slide is very weak & doesn't hold its position on 3rd well. The 1-2 slider engages 1st ok but is very hard to slide to 2nd by hand. One slider has 3 rings the other doesn't.
Thanks for doing this, i now feel confident to replace the main shaft i my m21 trans ,the local shop wa,ts over 400 dollars to do this . With these vids and your book you are a great asset to gearheads and the like. Thanks again !
I've been reading a lot about this since I wrote to you. I think what I was missing was the second "blocking" function of the rings. The only thing that really lines up the teeth inside the slider with those on the gear is the pointy teeth in the gear. What the synchro ring is doing is preventing the slider from grinding against the gear until they are the same speed. Once they are the same speed, then the pointy teeth just slide in, aligning as necessary. . . .
I remember shifting the old Crash Boxes where you double clutched them or shifted by your RPMs. I drove a 75 Peterbilt with a 13 speed and it was all done without using the clutch. It had a clutch brake on the input shaft but only used for getting it into gear from a stop.
Brilliant! Thanks for the lesson. Very good explanation on how a gear is synchronised. Great fit when I start the strip down on my eurovan gearbox 2nd gear won't select.
Thanks Paul, for this explanation, I got a bonus answer too, when you explained the operation of the sync rings in a WC T5. I've been trying to understand for a couple weeks why the confusion about what kind of lubrication in the T4 &T5. Now to figure out if I have a WC T4 in my '84 Jeep or no.
Again everyone... your SECURITY restrictions on your Google plus accounts prevent me from responding to your questions
GearBoxVideo nicely explain
GearBoxVideo ... Very impressed... I have a Muncie 4 spd in my impala with a Vertigate shifter, love it but with these times I need a up-scale trans like the Richmond 5 spd. But don't want to loose my Vertigate...what is your comment?
please help me reply me i have a problem i m using ford fiesta 2009 tdci engine today im facing some problem with my gear shifting when i move my car with 1 2 3 it has some weird sound but when i use top gear it doesnt have any sound and car runs smooth whats the problem please reply im your subscriber pls tell whats the problem...
GearBoxVideo nv4500 long teal shaft dodge
Hi. I want to do this. Where should I start. Im aircraft technician. Please answer
This is, hands down, the clearest description of synchros I've ever seen. Thanks, Paul.
Thanks for that!
Amazing actually...❤
Hello Paul ?
George here (67 yr old) I figured out how the synchro rings did their job when I repaired my first Ford (3sp, smile) TL back in about 1965. Their action and the end result of them being there is very difficult to describe verbally. You did a very good job in this video for those who have never held the parts in their hands. I was watching today to try and learn about the 2 and 3 cone synchro that my new Mustang GT has in it. Thank you!
Thanks.
You are the first person I have seen to acknowledge the "blocking" condition and fully explain why. I have asked that question many times and gotten nothing but a bewildered look from those I have asked. My top loaders always have that problem after a while from power shifting.
ytmachx that's why they are called blocker rings.
My man Paul dropping the knowledge. These videos are so indepth and informative. Most videos just do a brief explanation with no example so seeing the parts and watching your demonstrations really help someone like me who's just afraid to open up the trans and get lost with all the moving parts. So thanks man.
Long time mechanical engineer but I've only worked on motorcycle transmissions that don't use synchros. Never really understood how they work. Great explanation. Love picking up tidbits like this even if I never use it.
I thought 14+ minutes about synchronizers? I won't bother with more than a few minutes...
I was glued to the screen! Thanks for an awesome video!
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
Finally some one who explains how it really works!
The important part for understanding how and why a synchro works is the indexing to the hub gear and the friction on the speed gear.
Got here because you replied to a comment of mine on a different video asking how the gears re-engage … 10 years after you posted this!! Amazing - I’m very impressed.👏👏👏
Thank you so much for replying, for the referral, and for the excellent explanation(s). I’ve never even heard of synchro rings - spent my career at a desk. It’s never too late to learn. 👍🙂
Man I love these videos that demonstrate the inner working of the transmission. While I will probably never disassemble the transmission myself, I learned a whole lot about transmission from watching your videos.
Thanks for watching!
Finally the answer to the question that was bothering me for a week now has been answered. I could not understand what is the mechanism of determining when the shaft speeds have been synchronized, and how the gear teeth are aligned for smooth shifting. Brilliant!
Great video! Exactly what I've been looking for, how the synchros work. And gets right to the point, no bs. Thanks Paul
When the master speaks, I listen. No one could explain this better.
There are some guys you just know not to piss off. One of those guys can explain synchronizers perfectly.
Wow, 11 years and still schooling us. This is hands down the most descriptive and informative video regarding synchros. Thank you!
Thank you
I actually learned something. I ACTUALLY FEEL I KNOW HOW TO DO THIS IF I HAD TO. Thanks Paul!
I am just an older "shade tree " guy and want to thank you for a beautiful explanation of synchronizers . Just awesome .
Thanks
I have been trying to wrap my head around how synchros work for a while and this video was perfect. It all makes sense now. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Thank you, please share the video!
Best video I've ever seen on how synchro rings work! Most other videos show the cone clutch speeding up/slowing down the gear to match the slider, but don't go into detail about how the blocker ring stops the slider from engaging until synchronization is complete. Also, now I know why my old car sometimes just wouldn't shift into first. Thanks :)
First and rev problems can also be from the clutch not completely disengaging 😇
When you started out Paul, I thought this was gonna be one of those dodgy videos that didn't really explain much at all, but that was excellent and AT LAST I now know how synchros work - thank you so much
Thanks for the feedback!
I love the no nonsense delivery style. Fantastic!
Thanks to this video I was able to fix my Case 580k backhoe that was immobile because of a key jamming the sync mechanism. After seeing how it went together I was able to fix it with no parts and drive it home. It was broke down in a field. Thanks!
Very cool.....
Your expertise has really paid off for me, I noticed after I reassembled my main shaft on my Muncie that the front synchro/gearset was frozen up, so I popped the snap ring off, pressed the assy off and found out the synchro was one of the wide setups, unlike the other set, so I grabbed the old synchro rings I removed and put the shorter set back on.Teeth were good, so all is well. Im glad I bought your book and watched all of your Muncie videos. Keep up the good work! Oh yeah, thanks for a quality rebuild setup too. :)
Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.
Amazing video! I've been watching videos from german transmission manufacturers (I'm from there) but no one explained it so quick and easy. And they used animations.
I had a 68 Road Runner 383 with 4 speed trans. The third gear syncro was bad so it would grind going into third. Now I understand how it was worn. Great explanation. You really know your stuff.
Had one of those as well. One of my faves
excellent tutorial. many thanks, gearbox video. i've been baffled by how synchros work for a long time, really thrilled to finally understand.
Thank you!
thanks this various vedios
GearBoxVideo great videos, thanks much for the time taken to be precise
this video is so helpful i have transmisson apart and still didnt understand how it works
After 5 years through the magic of RUclips I randomly find out why my Cruiser sometimes refuses to go into first gear....no grinding, just won't shift until i blip the gas pedal. Worn first gear syncro, like you said, blockout condition. Thanks mate!!
I used to build gearboxes for a living for the UK market. for the Ford Transit, the newer coated ring was often disgarded in favour of the older brass ring, as often the coating would break up on the newer rings. VW thought they were making the gearchange for 1st and 2nd smoother on the 0A4 boxes, which replaced the 02J box by using smaller dogteeth. to this day, this is a design fault, as the hub outer slide ring hits the 1st gear dogteeth with the 3 part syncro offering no breaking effort on the gear. This leads to the hub slider teeth burring over, and then prevents it from traveling into 2nd gear. And finally, the UK Toyota MR2/Avensis/Cellica gearbox uses a cheaper bearing over the import model. when it fails, the damage to the gearbox is quite destructive, but dispite the mass trauma, some good cleaning up with debur tools and a new CWP, along with a rewelded and machined rear case puts it back on the road.
+Allan Dawes Have you opened a Celica GT4 (E154) gearbox before? I'm thinking of rebuilding the engine and the synchros because its kind of notchy to get into second and third gear at speed. A guy called Ryan here on YT has made videos about it and it seems simple enough.
+MityLite Ive done the 5 speed manual box's. The 5th hub is the only tricky bit to get off. I usually unbolt the 5th fork from the shaft and slide the outer hub and fork off, and recover the strikers and wire clip. Note the orientation of the strikers. Then remove the C clip. I used a 2 legged puller, but half stripped down and using 2 M8 bolts, but make sure the thread goes all the way to the end of the bolts, and doesnt have a taper on the end. Screw the bolts into the hub center with the puller in place, and carefully work it up. When you refit, make sure to have a block of wood supporting the input shaft, and use a tube drift to knock the hub back on. You can have it complete when you knock it back on. Give the striker clips a slight strech to give them a little extra hold. Won't cause any problems with gearchange. When you press the gearshaft, have the spitters under 4th,then 2nd - pressing the whole lot from 2nd will chip teeth. Then remove the C clip and press 1st. There is a little ball under the washer below 1st. Note the syncros are sided, so dont swap them around, else it will be hard to get gear. If your having 1st and 2nd issues though, it is most likely the clutch. The bearing under 5th usually breaks up and locks the box up.
J'ai une voiture audi 100 Anne 1987
Jai le 2em ne repons pas fasil.
Nkoun nijri 3em nraja3 2em yt3ada bisif
As the ring pushes onto the clutch, that creates torque (?) against the teeth of the slider that prevents the slider from sliding until that torque lessens when the speeds are aligned. Man, mechanical engineers are something else.
Do I have all that right? Thanks again for talking to me. It's amazing that all this is accomplished with one solid piece of metal.
My Old Man used to say "Grind me off a pound" and I had a friend that would say "I heard they making them out of rubber next year." Another great video.
I appreciate the inner working of a manual transmission now, thank you. I've had a 66 327 corvette since 1978, it always would pop out of 2nd gear when you let off the gas, I've never repaired in over 40 years, I believe its a Muncie, someone called it a "rock crusher". I'd like to have it repaired, now I know what's involved. Great video, thanks again.
My 69 Firebird had a muncie that use-ta do that. Even with a new blocker ring. I remember a Co. that sold a syncro assy, to cure that problem, that wasn't too expensive. I can't remember the details of the replacement parts, that compensated for what-ever caused that ailment, cause it was so many tears ago. But I do remember it fixed the problem. I think it's a common problem with some muncies. Maybe the 2nd gear gets a little wear on it's bore, and rocks. (?)
It's the gear itself and the slider usually. New synchro rings will never fix that issue
Great video! Thank you very much, that helped me understand how a gearbox works and that made my automotive engineering student life easier. You are awesome sir!
+voiddamn Thank you very much.
voiddamn
Slots open up from wear and the keys don't usually remain in the same position because the gear's thrust force changes when you are on and off the gas, pushing the ring and key back towards the hub. The gear is helical so acceleration and deceleration will move the gear towards and away from the hub.
Awesome video! I learned a lot from it. Now i am not afraid of the transmission anymore! Please do more video on all the mechanics parts on cars in the future. Already subscribed.
It's obvious you are into these trans and your excitement comes through in your voice. You were on a roll in this video and you made everything perfectly simple to follow. I especially like the fact that you show how each style has it's good points and weaknesses.
The aspect of the correct type Lube was awesome and to the point. I hear of so many guys wanting to go away from the recommended and try some Snake Oil from some salesman. Now you talk about disaster waiting to happen.
It was really nice to see someone else point out how not to mismatch components.
I hear guys tell me they took two trans and made one. Later I get it in with shifting issues...and then they wonder why it needs so many replacement components. It's like you pointed out, Rebuilding the engine and replacing all the internal components converts into trans rebuilds. You don't just replace what looks bad or is worn without considering the whole unit. I don't get how that notion all started but it's been that attitude for ages.
Some people just don't have a concept of how these work and only know how to change parts but not how to build. I know you'll know what that means.
Anyway, another great informative video and I learned some more new things again. Thanks.
I find so many sites that show some guy doing some kind of build with his special trick or new component. Have you ever noticed how their project is at one level of completion, the video breaks away and all of a sudden a ton of work's been done? Then when the guy comes back he starts talking like he did all the work off camera...The presenter has perfectly manicured hands, clean fingernails and clean clothes while you see a worker in the background working on a similar mechanical unit? IT always cracks me up. My point is I don't get that impression with you and you add more comments supporting what you're showing. It's certain to me that you are no pretender and I appreciate all the information you share.
I am impressed and now a faithful follower of your channel. Keep up the great work.
Robert (Auto Doc)
+Tony Posluszy Your security permissions don't allow me to reply to your comments. Just because you have new synchros installed doesn't mean they are good quality ones.
Besides OEM what brand names are good when it comes to transmission parts? What do your kits come with? Timken bearings? National Seals? Need to know the best brands for these parts... (like the PowerStroke 6.0L engine, cheap parts generally become disastrous and sometimes come back to haunt you)
There are no good brands as a blanket brand. Example; some SKF /CR seals are really bad and short lived compared to some Tawanese seals. It's about quality parts and experience. I have built 1000's of transmissions, so you get to know what works best for you.
Now this is exactly how videos should be made, no bull just straight forward easy to understand Transmission for Dummies information. Thank you GearWorldTV just subscribed
My book makes it easy. Its available on Amazon. Look for author Paul Cangialosi
Great video. I've seen a ton of videos that just say "syncros work by matching the speeds of the gears" but never really understood the details. Thanks for putting up a video with some real understanding and technical detail.
What about an nv5600? It grinned for a bit when using the clutch then I started rev matching without the clutch. I changed fluids and now I lost 5th gear. When I try to put it in 5th it just feels like nothings there
The 5th gear fork may have broken of the dowel pin simply dropped out.
Yoooooooooo this is a rare sighting
"without the clutch" 😬
Your video just made the light turn on over my son's head. Now he understands what I've been trying to explain to him about why his third gear grinds if your not careful to match the engine and road speed to help it. Thanks a million.
This was incredibly informative, thank you!
+ZhulMechanos Thank You!
Synchro rings are also called blocking rings. If you have a bad ring, you get grinding when trying to shift. As the keys apply pressure to the ring the ring turns with the gear which starts the whole indexing process. The slider can't get past the ring until it indexes in the opposite direction.
Excellent information. Thank you.
Absolutely stunning!
Brilliantly detailed explanation of synchro function.
Over 1.6 Million views!
Posted 11 years ago AND YOU'RE STILL RESPONDING TO ENQUIRIES!
Simply stunning! Paul, you've blown my mind.
Would gladly travel a thousand miles just to shake your hand. I am impressed beyond words!
I can't travel that thousand miles because my boots would get soggy long before I made it to you, since I'm in Queensland Australia.
I run 1980s 60Series LandCruisers with locally built GM Holden 5L V8 power. (Similar to smallblock Chev.)
These engines have long torque curves & they make good usable HP at significantly higher revs.
LandCruiser gearboxes are painfully slow to synchronise mainly because the ratio spread is excessively wide to suit lugger engines that do not rev, the rotating mass of the cluster & associated gears is heavy & the synchros don't cope when the engine is revved.
Even double clutching on down shifting when climbing hills pulling a heavily loaded trailer is a fail since LC box takes so long to synchronise & downshift, you're almost rolling backwards trying to get down through the box.
Grade angle changes on hills I travel over vary part way up. You rev the pick handles out of your engine in second on a lesser gradiant & end up rolling backwards trying to engage third. You lose momentum & the excessive hike from second up to third coupled up to slow shift causes stall in third gear & you're forced to re-engage second... You rev your engine to death for no gain.
Standard HOLDEN gearbox behind 1990s 5L V8 is rugged common global T5 with brilliant short throw shift, closer ratios & very rapid synchronisation. I have several T5 boxes.
I looked at using a Jeep renegade T5 gearbox case & transfer case with Holden internals as a conversion. That poses a problem. LandCruiser transfer kicks right to align with RIGHT SIDE DRIVESHAFTS, WHILE JEEP TRANSFER KICKS LEFT.
Will common global V8 T5 internals graft into a Jeep Case?
Must get a beautiful T5 into a LandCruiser behind my V8, preferably with original LC Transfer Case.
Any advice or suggestion would be helpful.
We have engineering capabilities & can cut mainshafts down if need be to accept an adaptor between T5 box & LC Transfer case.
Speedo cable isn't a concern.
Is it likely a Jeep Transfer could be rotated on the back of the box to swing right instead of left?
Is it likely a Jeep Transfer would bolt up to a common T5 box with rear extension housing removed & mainshaft shortened?
Does anyone over there fit T5s into old 1980s LandCruisers?
I rarely use 4 Wheel Drive. I often use Low Range to reverse trailers & manouvre around in tight areas. I understand the T5 2.54:1 First Gear will be much higher than the LC Million to One First Gear. I'll run a sintered bronze solid button clutch if needed.
One of my engines runs a big overlap cam & spins nicely to 7000 RPM. I cannot use THAT engine with the hopeless original LandCruiser gearbox.
I have lower profile tyres we can use to lower gearing instead of swapping crown & pinnion sets.
I haven't found a single LandCruiser with a T5 anywhere in Australia & most of the Jeeps we see here are automatics.
I've looked at this headache on & off for several years now. I have a Nissan 720 Divorced Transfer Case I can JackShaft in behind a standard length T5, but that involves a cradle fabricated into the chassis, a 50 foot long transfer lever, an entirely new longer front driveshaft & a ridiculously short rear one, PLUS 720 Divorced Transfer Cases are fairly rare, I have no spare & the one I have looks tiny & feeble to me. It would be a disaster to re-engineer the old truck around the Nissan Case & have it disintegrate behind the punchy little V8... It gets worse: I'd also likely have to lose my long range belly tank to fit the Nissan case so far back in the chassis.
Can you help with this oddball problem? I'd buy an adaptor- T5 to Toyota Transfer tomorrow if I knew where to find one.
We do a lot of high speed highway towing in hilly country. Have had LandCruiser box just start to weld gears onto her mainshaft & changed gears in the nick of time before welding became permanent.
I believe T5 overdrive is much steeper than barely noticeable slight LandCruiser overdrive. This enables lowering final drive ratio without losing top gear overall speed. LandCruiser ratios are pretty sad.
Both my LC boxes are tired & suffering. One jumps out of 3rd & 4th on deceleration which is pesky when crawling down steep grades fully loaded. 4th will hold her with no trailer. 3rd works with the trailer & both were jumping out when I bought the old girl back in 2018.
The other truck still runs original 2H diesel Tojo 6 Banger & she jumps out of 5th instantly when you lift your foot off the loud pedal. You literally must hold her in 5th gear the entire time at highway speeds. I'm used to that.
I don't abuse gearboxes. I drive quickly without hurting my gearbox. Both these Japanese turds of gearboxes had these issues when we bought the vehicles. Nothing has deteriorated, there are no bearing noises. The box that jumps out of 3rd & 4th is behind the V8 & it's just a loose & chattery tired old box exactly as it was when we got her. Truck was V8 when we bought her & box has stood up OK all things considered.
I cannot justify rebuilding these horrid gearboxes when I have perfect T5s on the shelf.
Am gearing up to replace engines in both trucks soon & would like to resolve gearbox issues at the same time. Have to fit fairly big header system with one of my high performance engines & I hope to set those pipes up around the entire engine & box/transfer as an assembly. Can't really proceed until we solve the gearbox problem.
An adaptor would be my best option.
The Jeep is in the non world class version and therefore is much weaker than the holding T5. I do have some Holden parts actually here most of them were 2.95 ratio. It's a better version and from the parts I have here they were world class. At least these were. I'm not too familiar with transfer case hookups and how they would work but I guess anything is possible
@@GearBoxVideo
Thanks for getting back to me.
As far as I am aware, EVERY T5 ever fitted to any Holden was the stronger gearbox. They were only fitted behind torquey Australianised 3.8L Buick V6s & also torquey 5.0L V8s.
I have at least 6 V6 boxes & 4 V8 boxes. The V8 box runs a shorter input shaft & that would keep the transfer close to it's original location.
I can easily shift the compact Holden V8 & box assembly forward in the long straight 6 engine bay if need be.
The problem is grafting a transfer case onto the back of the Aust T5 & keeping the driveshafts on the right side.
I'm in a fairly remote area & there are no conversion gurus to be found.
I figured fitting strong T5s behind SmallBlocks into 4X4s over there would be fairly common.
It looks like I'm on my own with this one.
Thanks again. You're doing an incredibly good job. People like you are extremely rare nowadays.
@johnbrooks9523 if you borg warner part numbers I may be able to help out.
Thank you very much! Now, I understand how synchro rings work.
Very good video with excellent info .I remember our teacher in trade school back in the early 70's explaining this to us with text and hands on and i never forgot it.
+twins56 Thank you for watching.
Hello Great Video btw ! I have an issue when car is in running it couldn't downshift from 3rd or 4th or 5th to 2nd and 1st.. So i cant downshift either to first or 2nd while in running. I have to stop car or near to idle then need to shift to 1st gear by double pressing the clutch then 2nd gear , then works like butter 3,4,5. So whats the problem and what to repair/replace. Mine is suzuki swift Vdi 2013 1.3L diesel engine, manual transmission , front wheel drive. And i am from India. I need a suggestion as quick as possible.
Sounds like you have a clutch release issue. Often times upshifting will work but downshifting is much harder when clutch release is an issue.
Local Garage man said it would be synchromesh rings and locks for 1st and 2nd gears, and also he said hardly it will cost 100 bucks total here. Is it correct or problem with clutch release only ? I dont know anything. Help me out . Thanks for the reply too
Vinay Kumar if it would cost around 100 dollars and they are willing to guarantee the work let them do it.
Thanks for the answer. I just bought the used car 3 weeks ago 98.5K kms on the odo. we replaced all oils,filters, ****"clutch plate, bearing"*** in local garage. Here it costs total 350$ to do that including labour charge etc. Just driven 500 km so far. This car(swift 2013 VDI) total costs me till now 10 grand . Hardly the problem is with the 1st gear first which is rare cases shift to first gear, no problem at all. Later 2 days back it came for the second gear too, this cause me more problem while slow traffic, which is either going to stall in 3rd or stop the car in neutral ( which are both cause traffic problems),then i can shift to 1st and 2nd. In my observation i saw i can shift to 3rd to 2nd after hardly press brake and seen less than 15 km/hr speed. What was the problem? Tell me what to do. I will proceed with your answer. I consider your previous comment also. But i need to explain you the whole case because you dont know what was exact problem without checking the car. Thank you once again.
again this sounds like a clutch release issue. If you can put it in these gears with the engine off, it most likely a clutch release issue
Beautiful beautiful video. I've always been baffled by synchronizers. And for the first time today I've fully understood the whole functioning of this machinery. Kudos to you good sir. My mind is blown.
Very nice explanation, Thx.
+Nate Dogg Thank you
THANK YOU, way better than any other video i've watched and i've watched videos on transmissions for months trying to get a solid grasp on this
Thanks for watching
You have earned a new subscriber! Being an Automotive enthusiast all my life, I have always wanted to be a fly on the wall of a great machinist!!! GREAT VIDEO!!!
now i know whats rong with my first gear down shift
I just finished up rebuilding /restoring my super t-10! Actually quite easy. Thanks Paul for your videos and your book! Hardest parts of the process was loading up the needles in the counter shaft, but using thick sticky tranny grease and putting it in the freezer for later use, made it very easy. Dropping the rear extension housing onto the rest of the case, and aligning the reverse shift fork on the reverse gear went really well.
Pressing on the gears and bearings onto the main shaft was also really easy.
Installing the front input shaft bearing was a little bit tricky, I had to tap it on while giving a bit of heat from a torch (non-sealed bearings). Install the large od snap ring around the bearing and keep on tapping until you can get the washer on and slide on the snap ring. For what it was, it went pretty damn good.
Thanks Paul.
Thanks for your great feedback and a big thumbs up for doing the job yourself!
just excellent
Thank you.
this is so far the best explained video on synchros on all of youtube ive seen so far. been having synchro issues in my Honda Prelude H22, explains alot of the WHY. thank you!
Thank you, 50th video on youtube finally one that explained it really simply and clearly. You have a knack for making this stuff stick in your memory and be unintimidating
excellent descriptions and visuals. I didn't know how the synchro slots and keys worked and you were the only place that explained it clearly.
Well I be damned, so that's why the T5 has always been the best shifting transmission ever. I've had 3550's, TKO 500's, and T5's in my Mustangs and the T5 has always been the smoothest shifting of the bunch. Thanks for showing that Paul. You da man!!!
I like the Automobile engineering , especially the gear shifting system narrated by experts. Being to go to bed I will promtly attend the class next day.Thank you.Good night.
WOW, awesome video. I've watched so many over the last 24 hours trying to understand my issue with my T56 but this is a really amazing video.
I've got an occasional grind during downshifting into 4th after doing a 26 Spline swap on my Tremec T56. I can let the RPMs go to idle then make the shift and it goes in but not as smooth as the rest if the gears. I opened it back up, and I found 2 broken keys in the 3-4 syncronizer. I'm hoping that just replacing those keys will get me back on the road again without any more issues. I'm guessing it isn't syncing correctly with 2 broken keys
The broken keys happen because the synchro rings wear and move closer to the gears. This creates a larger gap and allows keys to jam and break. Rings need to be changed that work with those keys
@@GearBoxVideo awesome thanks for the advice! I was worried I had put it back together wrong after swapping the input shaft.
Awesome video. It is a pleasure to listen to someone who knows what they are talking about, and you do.
Great description, Gearboxes and their inner workings are like mysterious 3-D Jigsaw puzzles!
Not so much now since I've been tutored by the best - Thanks Paul!
I've just blown first gear in my truck and didn't know what it meant to stuff the synchros
Thank you for uploading this, I now understand, pretty important when you're a car chick 👌🏽
Marni Damoulakis what make model truck?
It's a 1991 Toyota 4Runner RV6
Thank you very much! This is the first time I really understand syncro-rings! I can't actually understand why others can't explain it that way! I saw several videos and they just don't show the things like that!
Thank You.
Same problem here, thanks very much for your explanation
Estebon Ham On I appreciate the comments. Thank you.
I just bought a Toyota Supa T combi, it was used for transport business, now I realised that the gears made a cracking sound, thats from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 but 4-5 is just fine, so I figured its a gearbox problem! Firstly the alignment of synchro rings was wrong because the gears were mixed, that is where there was to be 1, it was 3 and 4 for 2! Thank you
Finally I understand and see how synchronized gears work. Thanks.
Thank you, that helps.
I teach metalwork & run a metal shop at Pratt institute...
I feel it’s very important for people who know what their doing & love what they do, have the ability to explain it well, to teach & share to students who truly want to learn. you do that, thank you. I have some of your books & enjoy reading them. The pictures & text are super helpful,
Be well,
Adam
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. I watched several videos covering broader concepts of manual transmissions but none of them fully broke down what was happening with the synchronization rings. My amateur mind wasn't understanding where the transfer of power from the input was occurring. All of the models and animations cover up this action with the shift forks or gears, so you can't see what's happening beneath. It makes a lot more sense now. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. Please subscribe and share...
Old video, but great info. The OP knows his stuff.
Yes. Most rings are simple cone clutches. Because the ring is spinning at the same speed as the output shaft ( which is connected to your driveshaft ). You are synchronizing the drive gear to the output.
The rings track with the slider and the keys or struts are designed ( by indexing ) not to allow the bronze ring to ever go point to point with the slider. Once the slider goes over the ring, try and remember that the ring is attached to the gear and the gear can still move left or right because the keys allow for it. So the slider just moves the gear over. If you obviously have blunt non pointy teeth, you'll end up with block outs and hard shifting.
Nobody in the other videos mentioned the the mass/inertia of the gears locking the ring until it slows down enough to "blip" backwards like you mentioned thank you sir i better understand now
Hi Paul, Just to say thanks for a great set of videos. Just rebuilt my 1970s Land Rover gearbox and used a lot of your tips. Gearbox now back in the truck and working, seemed a bit tight on the shift at first but seems to be getting easier. Thanks again. Graham
Appreciate it
thanks to you, I now understand synchro gears
Thanks for posting this. I've been driving stick shifts for almost 40 years and never had a clear idea of how synchros worked. Your explanation of the newer non-bronze multipart rings also explains why I have to run $20 qt Castrol Syntorq instead of $2 qt generic 90 wt gear lube in the NV-4500 5-speed in my '98 Dodge Cummins.
Yes the oil is expensive, but you need to keep the linings soaked in it so they don't burn up
Paul, you rock. This video was a joy to watch, your explanations were perfect. Thanks.
Thanks for watching
Just want to say very well explained. I’m going to rebuild my fwd transmission and have learned so much with your explanation on worn parts.
First it would be helpful to know what make and model car you have and what brand oil was used. Sounds like the wrong oil and if the transmission bwas removed the hydraulics may not have been bled correctly.
Great video! I'm doing a level 2 IMI qualification, and part of that is understanding how transmissions work, and your video shows in great details how the syncro's work. Thanks!
Appreciate the feedback, thank you
That last 30 seconds was super helpful. Thank you for the video. I'm actually trying to find out why my AMC T-15 grinds going into second.
Thanks. Great explanation and I've finally got the hang of how synchroniser rings work. Feedback - the banging of the rings on the steel table is a bit distracting, and your hands move so quickly it's like watching a card trick. Thanks again for uploading.
And now I finally know how these work! I have the trany from my WRX open right now for a grinding 4th. Turned out to be a shift fork worn almost completely away but this helped me inspect the synchros
The best time of my life was on the football field and Going through the gears on my M22 with V-gate 69 camaro .
Going Through the gears was so freaking cool.😎 I miss those days!!
Great video, even with 3 degrees in engineering, 2 mechanical, engineering, had to watch 2 times to catch it all! Well worth the time.
Appreciate that.
I always understood how the cone shape causes the gears to match RPM, but I never understood how the blocking mechanism worked - until this video. Thanks!
Well after watching a fair few videos now, especially this one, I'm sold, bought your book, I don't even care that I currently don't have a trans to work on, it's just super interesting, thanks so much Paul!
Thanks for your support.
@@GearBoxVideo My pleasure mate, thank you for the knowledge :) do you have a patreon at all?
This is a good video for someone who already knows the basics of transmissions. I need to find a video explaining transmissions on the first grade level.
I'm sure there are others on RUclips.
The video was very good and I am very grateful .Thanks for explaining more about the gearing mechanisms in the gearboxes
Thank you. Thank you for clearing up the "black magic" and wizardry surrounding synchro rings... always wondered how they worked and what caused this stuff to fail. Fantastic explanation; great video; awesome information. Stuff like this is what the internet was intended to help with. THANK YOU!!!
Thanks for watching!
Said like a true new yorker. Explains how it is and no bs, cheers
Very nice video. Years ago I raced a 55 chev in AHRA H stock with a T10 I bought completely disassembled in a box . Was really fun for a young kid to figure out how put it together and invent tricks to hold needle bearings in place with grease and use a cut off counter shaft to assemble it. One trick I did was grind all the teeth off the blocking rings ! Man that was the best shifting transmission for drag racing.........didn't even use the clutch, it would shift as fast as your hand could move. Down-shifting was another story!!!
Thanks for watching!
Synchros are such a great mechanism. Simple yet effective solution to a seemingly impossible problem of synchronizing speeds. But after looking at the solution I wonder if I could have come up with such a solution myself.
There is always room for improvement
Thanks Paul, I get it now thanks to your demo.
I'm bought a rebuild kit for my 1977 super t10 that has problems engaging 3rd but if 3rd is already engaged it can go from a dead stop in my 57 chev & will never fall out of gear. My 1-2 shifts fine but you cannot downshift into 2nd. Now its on the bench & I notice that the 3-4 slide is very weak & doesn't hold its position on 3rd well. The 1-2 slider engages 1st ok but is very hard to slide to 2nd by hand. One slider has 3 rings the other doesn't.
Thanks for doing this, i now feel confident to replace the main shaft i my m21 trans ,the local shop wa,ts over 400 dollars to do this . With these vids and your book you are a great asset to gearheads and the like. Thanks again !
Thanks for the support.
I've been reading a lot about this since I wrote to you. I think what I was missing was the second "blocking" function of the rings. The only thing that really lines up the teeth inside the slider with those on the gear is the pointy teeth in the gear. What the synchro ring is doing is preventing the slider from grinding against the gear until they are the same speed. Once they are the same speed, then the pointy teeth just slide in, aligning as necessary. . . .
I remember shifting the old Crash Boxes where you double clutched them or shifted by your RPMs. I drove a 75 Peterbilt with a 13 speed and it was all done without using the clutch. It had a clutch brake on the input shaft but only used for getting it into gear from a stop.
Beautiful explanation. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant! Thanks for the lesson. Very good explanation on how a gear is synchronised. Great fit when I start the strip down on my eurovan gearbox 2nd gear won't select.
Thank you very much. Very good info. I used to see your books years ago. This info is priceless for those of us wanting to learn
You are very welcome
Thanks Paul, for this explanation, I got a bonus answer too, when you explained the operation of the sync rings in a WC T5. I've been trying to understand for a couple weeks why the confusion about what kind of lubrication in the T4 &T5. Now to figure out if I have a WC T4 in my '84 Jeep or no.