Good video. First, I clean the file using a file brush, it has short stiff teeth just for that purpose. They come with a pick for removing material from between teeth. The more debris and loose rust you can remove before the process, the faster/more efficient the rust removal. I use parts cleaner to remove any oils or grease, then I use the hot soapy water. RINSE THOROUGHLY. Then I do the acid bath. ALWAYS ADD THE ACID TO THE WATER, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND. Adding water to acid can cause it to heat up, and possibly boil over. After the first stint in the acid bath, I neutralize it, file out any loose rust, and clean it again. Then I do a second acid bath, neutralize it. The copper pipe and glue sticks are great ideas. Keep posting stuff!
That's not why acid is added to water, it is because of a splash. when adding a liquid to a liquid , the source of the back splash is from the liquid that is already in the bucket.
It DOES WORK ...to a point. I worked for a company for a number of years that sent "dull" files to an outside firm for "acid sharpening". We manufactured machinery that had to repeatably machine brass blanks to within 1-2 thousandths. Unfortunately many of the machine components were stamped steel or castings if various types. In a nutshell... these units were in effect "fitted together". We relied upon judicious use of files and india stones to acheive the necessary fitup in order to meet the required performance specification. ANYHOW... I took real good care of the files I was issued, taking care to keep the teeth cleared and never allowed them to bang around in a tool box. Accordingly, I "marked" my files with an abrasive wheel so that I could be sure to "get mine back" when a batch was returned by the firm we contracted with. Without a doubt, they performed far better than they did when I "took them offline" and left them with our tool crib guy to send them off. Were they as crisp cutting as a new Grobet or Nicholson file from the tool crib? No... But they were far, far more usable than they were prior to having them processed. They could also benefit from a second processing when they got dull again...but beyond that, it was a matter of diminishing returns. In my experience...unless someone submitted a file that had severely rusted due to exposure to corrosive substances (missing areas of teeth) or submitted a file that someone had routinely attempted to used on hardened steel, the process was usually effective. With shipping cost amortized over a batch of maybe 40-50 files, I was told our "cost per file processed" was a little less than 1/6 the cost for a new unit. Comparing new vs. Acid etched, I'd say an etched one delivered 60-70% of the usable life of a new one before again becoming dull again. But again...if you abused/mis-used your files, all bets were off ...even with new ones! SO...Not for everyone, but we routinely went through enough files on a monthly basis to make the cost savings pretty attractive. Etching them yourself (as in the video)6 certainly cost reduces the process to "pennies" and I would definitely consider it, especially for "expensive files"... In effect, quality brands, as well as the more expensive file profiles one sometimes has need of. On the other hand... a lot of JUNK files are coming out of China and India...often the result of poor material and/or heat treatment post machining...you can't effectively "polish a TURD"!!!
I am a high end custom archery bow manufacturer. I have probably near 100 different files. High end files are not easy to find. None are made like the old ones. I was hopeful that this would work on my old favorites. I did it all but the improvement was slight and it didn't last long. The acid eats the leading edge of each tooth or grove and thins it. It really isn't worth the effort. Meh.
File card, (the only name I know for it) is a bit more difficult to get than it used to be. However, Draper, Silverline and Nicholson all still make it and all are available through Amazon (well, you would have guessed wouldn't you?) These days it usually has a handle on for ease of use (yes it is better) and I noticed that the Nicholson one is brass one side and steel the other side, about £13 or so.
When I was an apprentice we would do all this in a matter of seconds with a simple wire brush. Files need pressure to work, at the end it was effective because he used that pressure.
This is ridiculous. Cleaning is NOT sharpening. If the cutting edges of teeth have been dulled by wear from long use, cleaning the file does nothing to “sharpen” it. Your title is a lie, sir.
You have to clean first The acid re-etches the file and should kill the rust, too .The copper pipe trick I had never seen before or the plastic tubing either to clean it . The copper would clean the edge and align the edge. 😊
No it's not. When I was young my father, who was a Sheet-Metal Worker, told me that it was possible to sharpen a file by etching it with Hydrochloric Acid. He didn't go into details and as he died over thirty years ago I have had to wait 'til I saw this video to find out.
Dear Sir, why didn't you get a iron or copper brush? It really would've saved you half the time. Anyways, thanks for the video. Your effort is appreciated. 👍🏼🙏🏽
Hi! Thank you so much for watching and for your kind words. I appreciate your suggestion about the iron or copper brush-I'll definitely consider it for next time. Your support means a lot to me. Stay tuned for more interesting content, and thanks again for your encouragement! 😊🙏🏽
This is standard for sharpening files. The acid removes a thin layer of metal resulting in the dull shiny groove ridges becoming more sharp. I use several acids jointly for better metal removal and sharper files. The heavy cleaning, acid bath, soda neutralizing, rinsing and drying is standard. I use a heat gun to rapid dry after rinsing. I normally have a handful of files in the acid bath at one time. Standard procedure for many generations. Of interest I was told that in German trade schools s student is expected to make his file handles and the use of a steel brush to clean a file is forbidden because it dulls the file. Only brass brushes are allowed. I find it good to get old cheaply priced files of various sizes and types in used tool stores and give them the traditional treatment to them use.
i have a lot of very nice OLD files from my great grandfather who gave them to my grandfather i'm 63 now and will give them to my son. they all work great still and i clean them once a year.
I don't know about anybody else, but I prefer videos where the maker talks and explains what and why they do the things they do. If I wanted to read about it I would get a book.
Great video on the recovery of the plugged, rusted file. Ever tried Evapo-Rust, its a non acidic, safe way to remove rust, it will not remove any of the iron from the file only the iron oxide even if you forget and leave it in for a long while. Its safe, has indefinite shelf life and will continue to work until all the cheating agent is used up, i have used a container for 2 years before it finally turns black and thickens up and no longer works. It wont hurt chrome, any non ferrous metals just have to brish off the debris when you pull it out. Its allso water based. Try it, it would save alot of work.
Thank you for the great tip! Evapo-Rust sounds like an excellent product for rust removal, and I appreciate you sharing your experience with it. I’ll definitely consider trying it out for future projects. Stay tuned for more interesting content coming up on the channel, and thanks for watching! 😊
Concordo, mas pode ser feito de forma mais economica e mais rapida. Pode-se fazer uma massa com amido e farinha misturado com agua e vinagre. Esta massa ira tirar a ferrugem solta. Na outra etapa que usa cola quente para retirar o cobre que ficou grudado, pode-se deixar no PERCLORETO DE FERRO. Que vai eliminar o cobre e protejer contra a ferrugem. I agree, but it can be done more economically and faster. You can make a dough with starch and flour mixed with water and vinegar. This putty will remove loose rust. In the other step that uses hot glue to remove the copper that was stuck, you can leave it in the IRON PERCHLORIDE. Which will eliminate copper and protect against rust.
А зачем покупать новый !? Если работаешь на заводе то достаточно пойти в инструментальную кладовую , взять новый хороший напильник и забрать домой . Вот и всё !!!
I often make small special shaped files by suspending shaped and hardened steel in muratic acid for a few days. The acid actually etches lines and points that are oriented toward the bottom of the container. A cleaned file suspended for overnight will definitely definitely come out sharpened some.
Hello and thank you for watching from Vietnam! Thank you so much for watching and for your kind words. It’s wonderful to connect with you from across the globe. Your support truly means a lot to me. I’m excited to share more interesting content with you soon. Stay tuned for what’s coming next, and thanks again for being such a great part of the community! ❤❤
@@InventorEye There's nothing, I will always follow and support the channel, and wish the channel to grow every day and bring more useful videos to the audience.
91% Isopropyl alcohol and a wire brush. I’ve restored close to 100 files. I’ve used Evaporust, vinegar, nothing but elbow grease, etc but nothing beats good old 91% isopropyl and a (mild steel) wire brush. Also, file cards are not for file restoration, but file maintenance
There is an ACID treatment to etch the metal and bring the edge BACK to a point. Tedious, and it Does Have a sharpening effect. I make a knife out of it and buy a new file however. File steel is REAL GOOD to keep an edge, heat treat tho, so it won't be brittle.
Acid is ued in the production of some brands of fish hooks to make them needle sharp.... I've heard of using Sulphuric acid of which extreme care would be required of course. I sharpen a piece of fencing wire to clean the grooves of debris first followed up with a wire brush.. cleaning off oil grease or paint would be essential. I haven't tried the acid treatment yet but have been meaning to....I see no reason for it not working to rejuvenate a worn file .
Muchas cosas ,mucho proceso, les voy a dar un método más fácil, no tiene que lijar ni cepillar, en un frasco hechas jugo de limón, cubres la herramienta, la dejas reposar por una hora, el óxido, la mugre acumulada sale sola , y sale como nueva la herramienta, algunas veces se queda un poco de oxcido, hechas nuevo jugo de limón esperas media hora y listo , hay que tirar el jugo de limón viejo, las líneas de la lima quedan totalmente limpias ,solo sale el óxido. Saludos.
There are many videos on RUclips detailing how to sharpen files using vinegar acetic acid. First chore is to clean file with stuff steel brush and sharp point to remove clogged residue to expose metal before submersion in acid. The longer submerged the sharper the result. Rinsing with water and final short soak in soda ash to neutralize acid followed by another water rinse and immediate hot air drying to limit rust of new exposed metal. I like to add additional acid to vinegar soak. No need to add any water. All other videos follow this general schedule.
Terima kasih banyak atas komentarnya! Senang sekali jika ilmunya bermanfaat. Kami sangat menghargai perhatian Anda pada video ini. Jangan lupa untuk tetap mengikuti kami, karena masih banyak konten menarik yang akan datang! 😊❤❤❤
The method of using acid to remove rust from a metal file is impressive and effective. This video not only saves money but also promotes recycling and environmental protection. An illustration of the ability to recycle and renew used tools
Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment! I’m glad you found the method of using acid to remove rust impressive and effective. It’s great to hear that you appreciate the focus on saving money, recycling, and environmental protection. Your support truly means a lot to me. Stay tuned for more interesting content-I’m excited to share more with you soon. Thanks again for being a part of the community! ❤💖
Ahaha, after so many stages it remains rusty. Instead, I just dissolve regular citric acid in water, bring it to a boil and keep the file in it for 5-10 minutes. And that's all - sharp and like new.
If you count the cost of the products used, total time involved and the fact that it wasn't sharpened just thoroughly cleaned, I'll just purchase a new one. Can't be that expensive.
Files can also be sharpened - of course not like in the video. The blunt files are annealed, re-cut and hardened again. There was (is) a trade for this - the file cutter.
wait that wasn't sharpening it it was just cleaning it.. I do the same with a wire brush.. rats I thought I might learn something here.. not this time.
Tốt nhất sau mỗi lần sử dụng dùng bàn chải sắt hoặc đồng chải . Ở Việt nam trong thời kỳ chiến tranh ,dũa bị tà (các khía mòn ) người ta băm lại để phục hồi . Ngày nay dua x mòn quá ,người ta dùng rèn dao . Riêng tôi ngâm các đồ rỉ trong nước vo gạo đặc ,trữ nước vo gạo cả một tuần lễ ,nhờ vậy sau khi ngâm một chi tiết của tàu điện thời Pháp rỉ tới mức không khác gì cục sắt rỉ đáng vứt đi ,tôi được một chiếc đe hoàn hảo .
Too Much Work 🤔, Although The Quality, Materials, And The Know How, Of How To Make A Good Quality File, Today Might Be Lost, And Restoring Old Stuff Is Still Pretty Cool 👍
If I did this to all my old fils I'd never get things done !! All you did was clean it !! Can't sharpen a dull file best is throw or use steel for some thing 😊
My grandad used this method in the 50s and i have used this repeatedly to clean . Not sharpen. Once the teeth are dull the file is no longer capable and either scrapped or made into another tool.... Vinegar works well and is not as corrosive as hydrochloric acid !
Realmente prefiero comprar una nueva, o dejar la vieja en vinagre blanco olvidada unos dias y terminar de limpiar con cepillo de alambre para darle un ultimo uso porque aunque la limpie y destape bien ya es una lima vieja usada y gastada. En conclusión compro una nueva y no pierdo tiempo uso inmediatamente.
You cleaned the file so it worked as it should. Nothing you did sharpened the file. It works better because you cleaned it.
I'd buy a new file than handle hydrochloric aced any day
Una total estupidez!!
Good video.
First, I clean the file using a file brush, it has short stiff teeth just for that purpose. They come with a pick for removing material from between teeth. The more debris and loose rust you can remove before the process, the faster/more efficient the rust removal.
I use parts cleaner to remove any oils or grease, then I use the hot soapy water.
RINSE THOROUGHLY.
Then I do the acid bath.
ALWAYS ADD THE ACID TO THE WATER, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND. Adding water to acid can cause it to heat up, and possibly boil over.
After the first stint in the acid bath, I neutralize it, file out any loose rust, and clean it again.
Then I do a second acid bath, neutralize it.
The copper pipe and glue sticks are great ideas.
Keep posting stuff!
That's not why acid is added to water, it is because of a splash. when adding a liquid to a liquid , the source of the back splash is from the liquid that is already in the bucket.
It DOES WORK ...to a point. I worked for a company for a number of years that sent "dull" files to an outside firm for "acid sharpening". We manufactured machinery that had to repeatably machine brass blanks to within 1-2 thousandths. Unfortunately many of the machine components were stamped steel or castings if various types. In a nutshell... these units were in effect "fitted together". We relied upon judicious use of files and india stones to acheive the necessary fitup in order to meet the required performance specification.
ANYHOW... I took real good care of the files I was issued, taking care to keep the teeth cleared and never allowed them to bang around in a tool box. Accordingly, I "marked" my files with an abrasive wheel so that I could be sure to "get mine back" when a batch was returned by the firm we contracted with.
Without a doubt, they performed far better than they did when I "took them offline" and left them with our tool crib guy to send them off. Were they as crisp cutting as a new Grobet or Nicholson file from the tool crib? No... But they were far, far more usable than they were prior to having them processed. They could also benefit from a second processing when they got dull again...but beyond that, it was a matter of diminishing returns.
In my experience...unless someone submitted a file that had severely rusted due to exposure to corrosive substances (missing areas of teeth) or submitted a file that someone had routinely attempted to used on hardened steel, the process was usually effective.
With shipping cost amortized over a batch of maybe 40-50 files, I was told our "cost per file processed" was a little less than 1/6 the cost for a new unit. Comparing new vs. Acid etched, I'd say an etched one delivered 60-70% of the usable life of a new one before again becoming dull again. But again...if you abused/mis-used your files, all bets were off ...even with new ones!
SO...Not for everyone, but we routinely went through enough files on a monthly basis to make the cost savings pretty attractive. Etching them yourself (as in the video)6 certainly cost reduces the process to "pennies" and I would definitely consider it, especially for "expensive files"... In effect, quality brands, as well as the more expensive file profiles one sometimes has need of.
On the other hand... a lot of JUNK files are coming out of China and India...often the result of poor material and/or heat treatment post machining...you can't effectively "polish a TURD"!!!
I am a high end custom archery bow manufacturer. I have probably near 100 different files. High end files are not easy to find. None are made like the old ones. I was hopeful that this would work on my old favorites. I did it all but the improvement was slight and it didn't last long. The acid eats the leading edge of each tooth or grove and thins it. It really isn't worth the effort. Meh.
I use a bench grinder with a brass wheel brush. About 2 to 3 minutes a side. They look and work like new .
*EXACT-A-MUNDO!!!*
Yes. A steel brush will do but will take time. 😂
this was way over kill for me. Yeap "I'm a brass brush" guy myself, some file I let be mellow for a reason.
Me to, but with old drill press.
Never heard of a file card obviously, they're for cleaning files!
Neither had my local hardware store when I went looking for one. I guess they don't sell them anymore.
@@ldhaney56that’s why Amazon is in business to get shit you can’t find any where local
Brass wire brush or brass wire wheel will work fine and do the job without any dangerous chemicals or glue sticks copper pipes etc
File card, (the only name I know for it) is a bit more difficult to get than it used to be. However, Draper, Silverline and Nicholson all still make it and all are available through Amazon (well, you would have guessed wouldn't you?)
These days it usually has a handle on for ease of use (yes it is better) and I noticed that the Nicholson one is brass one side and steel the other side, about £13 or so.
When I was an apprentice we would do all this in a matter of seconds with a simple wire brush. Files need pressure to work, at the end it was effective because he used that pressure.
This is ridiculous. Cleaning is NOT sharpening. If the cutting edges of teeth have been dulled by wear from long use, cleaning the file does nothing to “sharpen” it. Your title is a lie, sir.
You have to clean first
The acid re-etches the file and should kill the rust, too .The copper pipe trick I had never seen before or the plastic tubing either to clean it . The copper would clean the edge and align the edge.
😊
Deep tle file in nitric acid and sulfuric acid , for a couple of minutes
To sharpen the edges again 😊 then just rinse with water.
No it's not. When I was young my father, who was a Sheet-Metal Worker, told me that it was possible to sharpen a file by etching it with Hydrochloric Acid. He didn't go into details and as he died over thirty years ago I have had to wait 'til I saw this video to find out.
Dear Sir, why didn't you get a iron or copper brush? It really would've saved you half the time. Anyways, thanks for the video. Your effort is appreciated. 👍🏼🙏🏽
Hi! Thank you so much for watching and for your kind words. I appreciate your suggestion about the iron or copper brush-I'll definitely consider it for next time. Your support means a lot to me. Stay tuned for more interesting content, and thanks again for your encouragement! 😊🙏🏽
Этот господин экономит не не время, а деньги.
A maneira mais difícil às vezes é a melhor ❤
@@InventorEye使用銅刷不用半分鐘就可以清除銼刀齒間的殘留廢渣。
Reinigen und schärfen sind für meinen Geschmack 2 unterschiedliche Dinge.
This is standard for sharpening files. The acid removes a thin layer of metal resulting in the dull shiny groove ridges becoming more sharp. I use several acids jointly for better metal removal and sharper files. The heavy cleaning, acid bath, soda neutralizing, rinsing and drying is standard. I use a heat gun to rapid dry after rinsing. I normally have a handful of files in the acid bath at one time. Standard procedure for many generations. Of interest I was told that in German trade schools s student is expected to make his file handles and the use of a steel brush to clean a file is forbidden because it dulls the file. Only brass brushes are allowed. I find it good to get old cheaply priced files of various sizes and types in used tool stores and give them the traditional treatment to them use.
Optischer Aspekt: befriedigend. Praktischer Nutzen: fragwürdig, ist die Feile alt und stumpf, wird sie nach der Prozedur stumpf bleiben.
i have a lot of very nice OLD files from my great grandfather who gave them to my grandfather i'm 63 now and will give them to my son. they all work great still and i clean them once a year.
Que hermosa melodia😊...
Esa lima es muy fina o le tienen mucho valor sentimental. Con todo ese proceso. Prefiero conseguir una nueva. Un abrazo.
👍🏻
Concordo em gênero número e gral, muito trabalho pelo preço de uma lima nova.
@@adilsonbitencourt7 Informe o que é GRAL .
I don't know about anybody else, but I prefer videos where the maker talks and explains what and why they do the things they do. If I wanted to read about it I would get a book.
Creo que es más rápido con solo vinagre y sal ... De todas maneras gracias por compartir
That's cleaning, not sharpening. Better to keep a wire brush next to your bench to clean the filings out after use.
The file is clean but remains blunt. That's why the file cutter's profession existed. He did it right.
Great video on the recovery of the plugged, rusted file. Ever tried Evapo-Rust, its a non acidic, safe way to remove rust, it will not remove any of the iron from the file only the iron oxide even if you forget and leave it in for a long while. Its safe, has indefinite shelf life and will continue to work until all the cheating agent is used up, i have used a container for 2 years before it finally turns black and thickens up and no longer works. It wont hurt chrome, any non ferrous metals just have to brish off the debris when you pull it out. Its allso water based. Try it, it would save alot of work.
Thank you for the great tip! Evapo-Rust sounds like an excellent product for rust removal, and I appreciate you sharing your experience with it. I’ll definitely consider trying it out for future projects. Stay tuned for more interesting content coming up on the channel, and thanks for watching! 😊
Lo mejor comprar una nueva pero el le gusta trabajar de por demás 😂😂😂😂
I lost my patients and motivation half way through this and bought 2 new files and they worked great.
good video you did very well
Thank you!
I'm thinking of buying a new file !!
I have no chance doing this.... he didn't give the crucial angle on the copper pipe bend..... I'm buggered.... a new file for me..
I bought a new file today and bet it cost less than what he spent to clean that file. 😅
A lot faster
our sharing has helped me overcome challenges in life. Thank you so much!
É MAIS ECONÔMICO COMPRAR UMA NOVA.
Concordo, mas pode ser feito de forma mais economica e mais rapida. Pode-se fazer uma massa com amido e farinha misturado com agua e vinagre. Esta massa ira tirar a ferrugem solta. Na outra etapa que usa cola quente para retirar o cobre que ficou grudado, pode-se deixar no PERCLORETO DE FERRO. Que vai eliminar o cobre e protejer contra a ferrugem.
I agree, but it can be done more economically and faster. You can make a dough with starch and flour mixed with water and vinegar. This putty will remove loose rust. In the other step that uses hot glue to remove the copper that was stuck, you can leave it in the IRON PERCHLORIDE. Which will eliminate copper and protect against rust.
@@josemariasilveirazacarias7154 rinse and repeat
O espirito da coisa é ensinar outras formas de resolver, temos que entender isso
А зачем покупать новый !? Если работаешь на заводе то достаточно пойти в инструментальную кладовую , взять новый хороший напильник и забрать домой . Вот и всё !!!
Wire brush works brilliantly.
Çok ilginç. Hayret
I often make small special shaped files by suspending shaped and hardened steel in muratic acid for a few days. The acid actually etches lines and points that are oriented toward the bottom of the container. A cleaned file suspended for overnight will definitely definitely come out sharpened some.
great video, from Vietnam! Nice to meet you
Hello and thank you for watching from Vietnam! Thank you so much for watching and for your kind words. It’s wonderful to connect with you from across the globe. Your support truly means a lot to me. I’m excited to share more interesting content with you soon. Stay tuned for what’s coming next, and thanks again for being such a great part of the community! ❤❤
@@InventorEye There's nothing, I will always follow and support the channel, and wish the channel to grow every day and bring more useful videos to the audience.
Or you could just buy another file?
I like to look after my tools but life's to short to bother doing this.
91% Isopropyl alcohol and a wire brush. I’ve restored close to 100 files. I’ve used Evaporust, vinegar, nothing but elbow grease, etc but nothing beats good old 91% isopropyl and a (mild steel) wire brush. Also, file cards are not for file restoration, but file maintenance
There is an ACID treatment to etch the metal and bring the edge BACK to a point. Tedious, and it Does Have a sharpening effect. I make a knife out of it and buy a new file however. File steel is REAL GOOD to keep an edge, heat treat tho, so it won't be brittle.
El video es : como limpiar y desoxidar una lima. No hay forma de afilar.
Si hay una forma pero como es todo tonto no le dije y si la limpio y mal ademas
Another method is soak it in white vinegar for a couple of days then use the tooth brush to clean off .
Soaking it in any acid just eats away at the teeth making it more dull~!!!!!!
Two things I got out of this clip; listen to your dentist, brush teeth regularly and when metal file goes bad buy a new, sharp one
If a file card was used once in awhile it might not get so loaded.
Acid is ued in the production of some brands of fish hooks to make them needle sharp.... I've heard of using Sulphuric acid of which extreme care would be required of course. I sharpen a piece of fencing wire to clean the grooves of debris first followed up with a wire brush.. cleaning off oil grease or paint would be essential. I haven't tried the acid treatment yet but have been meaning to....I see no reason for it not working to rejuvenate a worn file .
Ice De-Rust & Deep Clean. No actual dharpening, just refreshing to nearly new condition
Demonstration of acid sharpening, a well known phenomenon. The acid etches the teeth, removing a small amount of metal and reducing their bluntness.
Hog wash just cleaned out the teeth didn't sharpen a thing
Muchas cosas ,mucho proceso, les voy a dar un método más fácil, no tiene que lijar ni cepillar, en un frasco hechas jugo de limón, cubres la herramienta, la dejas reposar por una hora, el óxido, la mugre acumulada sale sola , y sale como nueva la herramienta, algunas veces se queda un poco de oxcido, hechas nuevo jugo de limón esperas media hora y listo , hay que tirar el jugo de limón viejo, las líneas de la lima quedan totalmente limpias ,solo sale el óxido. Saludos.
Who is the smart person that keeps HCL IN A WATER LIKE BOTTLE????
Apenas fez uma limpeza (utilizando muito material, daria para comprar outra nova ).
As estrias permanecem com o brilho de desgaste !
Bravo...😊😊😊
I'm so glad! 😊❤😊
There are many videos on RUclips detailing how to sharpen files using vinegar acetic acid. First chore is to clean file with stuff steel brush and sharp point to remove clogged residue to expose metal before submersion in acid. The longer submerged the sharper the result. Rinsing with water and final short soak in soda ash to neutralize acid followed by another water rinse and immediate hot air drying to limit rust of new exposed metal. I like to add additional acid to vinegar soak. No need to add any water. All other videos follow this general schedule.
I use 6% vinegar & leave it for a day or two. Then rinse it off with water thoroughly & spray wd 40 on it to get rid of the water.
é um bom trabalho, mas fica mais barato comprar uma lima nova.
This is just cleaning the file really well, not sharpening.
Thank you! 😊Stay tuned for more interesting content!
It didn't look dull. The tops of the teeth shine when they are dull. Rusted a bit yes.
🍒 bonjour
En France, nous avons un outil qui permet de " nettoyer " une lime celui ci s'appelle : Carde
Thanks! 😊 Stay tuned for more great content!
Si quieres que más personas vean este método y lo usen deberías poner en video que estás usando no todo el mundo sabe que es HCL😝😝
No sabia que estaba usando acido cloridrico, toma tu like.
I submerge them in white vinegar for two days and then remove all remaining rust with a wire brush. Brushing takes no longer than 19 minutes.
I meant 10 minutes...
У каждого свои приключения🤣👍
é muito trabalhoso. Talvez seja mais fácil e melhor comprar outra.
You can clean a file but you cant sharpen one like this.
Thanks! 😊 Stay tuned for more great content!
Wow 12hrs later it seems sharper,try soaking in muriatic acid overnight then coat with sodium silicate right after rinse or it will rust right back
waste of time
Já trabalhei em indústria d fabricação d lima após o uso e o desgaste não e possível reafiar uma lima...
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The method of using acid to remove rust from a metal file is impressive and effective. This video not only saves money but also promotes recycling and environmental protection. An illustration of the ability to recycle and renew used tools
Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment! I’m glad you found the method of using acid to remove rust impressive and effective. It’s great to hear that you appreciate the focus on saving money, recycling, and environmental protection. Your support truly means a lot to me. Stay tuned for more interesting content-I’m excited to share more with you soon. Thanks again for being a part of the community! ❤💖
Coloque a lima enferrujada de molho no caldo de limão por dois dias, lave e repita o processo. Ficará perfeito com menos recursos e trabalho.
Ovo je čista glupost.
Ahaha, after so many stages it remains rusty. Instead, I just dissolve regular citric acid in water, bring it to a boil and keep the file in it for 5-10 minutes. And that's all - sharp and like new.
"Ржавая, тусклая, металлическая напильника" - велик могучий русский языка.
Vou testar aqui pois nem sempre posso me deslocar ate a cidade porque moro em area rural
If you count the cost of the products used, total time involved and the fact that it wasn't sharpened just thoroughly cleaned, I'll just purchase a new one. Can't be that expensive.
Cheaper to buy a new file than a file card on EBay.
0:48 Las limas no se afilan,se pueden limpiar nada más.
把銼刀整理返鋒利用任何液體是外行人的想法，在行的祇需一個銅刷順着齒紋刷一下就完成清除齒間的殘留物。
Files can also be sharpened - of course not like in the video. The blunt files are annealed, re-cut and hardened again. There was (is) a trade for this - the file cutter.
Поместите напильник в раствор лимонной кислоты на сутки, зубья засочатся, проверено.50 грамм на литр.
Or you could put it in a tumbler with kiln dried sand and some small aggregate, it will cut fine once you've blown it off
По затратам проще купит новый а из этого заточку сделать)
Y para que son las barritas de silicona...?
File card? They used to make a tool just for that. Like a wool card but for cleaning your file
Na verdade não afiou, somente limpou os "dentes" porque o que já estava gasto não se regenerou ,continuará gasto.
Brosse métallique sur un touret c'est plus rapide et efficace 😅
wait that wasn't sharpening it it was just cleaning it.. I do the same with a wire brush.. rats I thought I might learn something here.. not this time.
इतना मेहनत करने की ज़रूरत है, इससे अच्छा एक नया फाइल खरीद लीजिए
Never heard of a file card ?
Tốt nhất sau mỗi lần sử dụng dùng bàn chải sắt hoặc đồng chải . Ở Việt nam trong thời kỳ chiến tranh ,dũa bị tà (các khía mòn ) người ta băm lại để phục hồi . Ngày nay dua x mòn quá ,người ta dùng rèn dao . Riêng tôi ngâm các đồ rỉ trong nước vo gạo đặc ,trữ nước vo gạo cả một tuần lễ ,nhờ vậy sau khi ngâm một chi tiết của tàu điện thời Pháp rỉ tới mức không khác gì cục sắt rỉ đáng vứt đi ,tôi được một chiếc đe hoàn hảo .
Too Much Work 🤔, Although The Quality, Materials, And The Know How, Of How To Make A Good Quality File, Today Might Be Lost,
And Restoring Old Stuff Is Still Pretty Cool 👍
May buy new file....
Espremíamos limão dento de um gomo de bambu e deixávamos por uns dois dias a lima lá dentro, saia limpinha tbm
Did he ever mention what those rubbery sticks were?
Hot glue sticks?
It's a lathe file. One direction cute only.
e so deixar no acido muriatico por 1 hora e pronto fica bem melhor que isso ai
Just rub with piece of charcol ,then brush off. Wash n brush if needed.
Fresh new file. That's all.
If I did this to all my old fils I'd never get things done !! All you did was clean it !! Can't sharpen a dull file best is throw or use steel for some thing 😊
My grandad used this method in the 50s and i have used this repeatedly to clean . Not sharpen. Once the teeth are dull the file is no longer capable and either scrapped or made into another tool.... Vinegar works well and is not as corrosive as hydrochloric acid !
Ôi mua 1 cây mới còn rẻ hơn mua mấy loại hoá chất trên
just go to store buy a new one , acid and charcoal it clean faster than that .
This is not sharpening. This is cleaning. You can not sharpen a file.
All I can see is that you cleaned the file and putting into acid would even dull it more~!!!
Toca adivinar losproductos usdos.
Металической щеткой хорошо чистится
Use a wire brush it's way faster .......
I wouldn't go to so much effort to clean a worn out bastard file I'd just buy a new one.
Si lo traducir en castellano gracias
Mais vale comprar uma lima nova.
Very good, really good!!!
The full form of HCL is Hindustan Computers Limited
Mua 1 cái mới còn rẻ và khỏe hơn làm việc này, chưa kể acid văng vào mắt là khổ.
There’s 9:47 I’ll never get back. 🙄🙄
Wow ... just pick up some Naval Jelly at an auto parts store and skip all that other stuff
Realmente prefiero comprar una nueva, o dejar la vieja en vinagre blanco olvidada unos dias y terminar de limpiar con cepillo de alambre para darle un ultimo uso porque aunque la limpie y destape bien ya es una lima vieja usada y gastada. En conclusión compro una nueva y no pierdo tiempo uso inmediatamente.